Meng's Travels: Durban

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Durban

As we descended from the majestic Drakensberg mountains, we approach Durban and the South Coast in the province of KwaZulu Natal. Durban is the third largest city in South Africa and the largest port in Africa. It is the gateway to the Kingdom of Zulu. Here you find a mix of different cultures - white and black Africans and the largest population of Indians outside India. Indians were first brought to South Africa as indentured servants to work in sugar cane fields. Today they are an integral part of South Africa, more so in Durban, where they made famous the Bunny Chow (see picture below). Instead of clam chowder in a bread bowl, you get curry (meat or vegetarian) in a hollow-out loaf of bread.
To get a flavor of this vibrant city, you have to walk around the CBD (Central Business District) area, especially around Victoria Market. Many of the shops in Victoria Market are run by Indians selling spices. You can get all kinds of spices, not just curry, for your cooking. Popular ones are marsala, bryani, tikka, tandoori, etc. There is even one called "Arson Fire - Mother-in-law Exterminator," whatever that is. There are other shops selling clothing, jewelry, souvenirs, etc. However, most of these shops are owned by Gujarati Indians, who came as businessmen, rather than the earlier Tamil Indians, who came as workers.
Outside Victoria Market, the streets in the CBD are busy with people. People selling and people shopping. Fruits, clothes, grains, cell phones, knick-knacks, etc. Like Johannesburg, this used to be a mostly white business area during the apartheid days. Today, you see very few whites in the CBD.