Saturday, June 20, 2026

Lijiang

Lijiang is one of those cities you hear people talk about but don't know why.  I am glad this is part of our Yunnan itinerary because supposedly it's another one of those beautiful places tucked into the foothills of the Himalayas.

Our driver and Sophia came to meet us after breakfast at the Holiday Inn in Shangri-la.  The plan is for the driver take the four of us to Lijiang, without Sophia.  We have another guide Qing, waiting for us at the Tiger Leaping Gorge, halfway to Lijiang.  We drove in a southeasterly direction, over beautiful mountain villages and sweeping views of the river.

Views of mountain villages

Respect for Nature

Eventually we arrived at an area where there are many tourists waiting around.  Our new guide Qing was there to meet us and started to taking us down to the river.  However, we haven't had lunch yet.  So the four of us went to a nearby local restaurant and had a family-style lunch.  It was very good and inexpensive.  It came up to about $8 a person.  No tax.  No tips.  The service was great.  The restaurant was clean.  This is another part of China that I have seen changed (for the better) from the last time I visited.  

There are several viewpoints where you can see the river.  Across the river is another bridge and there is the symbol of this gorge:  The Leaping Tiger.  This side of the river is part of Lijiang.  On the other side is part of Shangri-la.  This area is inhabited mostly by the indigenous Nakhi people.  The river is called the Jinsha river, a primary tributary to the Yangtze River.  The gorge is not navigable but the area attracts adventurous hikers.

Many visitors to the Gorge

A view from high up

A bridge on the other side

Rock in the middle of the gorge

Leaping Tiger

View of lower part of the river

On the way to the town of Lijiang we stopped by the Black Dragon Pond Park.  It is a beautiful park with the lake as the center of attraction.

Dragon Pond Park



We checked into the beautiful Wang Fu Hotel in Old Town Lijiang.  After that we took a walk in the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town.  It is a beautiful town with its Ming and Qing dynasty era architecture.  Personally, I think this is the most beautiful old town of all the ones I have visited.  So beautiful that it is almost too commercial.

Plaque commemorating Lijian as a UNESCO World Heritage site

Entrance to the beautiful Wang Fu Hotel

Building reflecting Old Architecture

One of the shops

Near the Town Square

The canal enhances the beauty of the town

A typical shop

Lanterns add to the beauty

Group Dancing in the Square

Another beautiful old architecture building 

The highlight of the visit to Lijiang is going up to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.  Locally, it's known as the Yu (Jade) Long (Dragon) Snow Mountain.  To get us ready for the walk up the mountain our guide bought us oxygen canisters.  These are use for temporary relief for high altitude.  They can cost anywhere between 10 to 20 yuan, depending on where you buy it.  Many people were carrying these canisters in case they get altitude sickness.



As always there was a long line to take the shuttle buses to where we start taking the cable car up the mountain.  Then there are more steps to walk up to the top.

View of mountain from below

Long line to take the cable car

Cable Car

Riding up into the clouds

Big crowd part way

More Climbing to do

Even more climbing

A group picture at 4,680m or 15,354ft

Even at this height we are not at the top.  The range of mountains peak at 5,596m or 18,360ft.  Yet it was a remarkable feat for many people to be able to climb this high.  Of course, most people were carrying oxygen canisters in case you start to feel dizzy.

Descending down the mountain


What impresses me most about these public places is the cleanliness.  This wasn't always true during my past visits to China.  Today the locals are more civic-minded.  There were park workers everywhere, keeping things orderly.  There are still some visitors trying to sneak into a queue but mostly people were well-behaved.  Two young ladies tried to sneak in front of us to take pictures at the sign.  They were yelled at by a park worker and told to get in line.  This is a remarkable change in the public attitude towards behaving properly in public.

After an energetic morning we were ready for a special hot-pot lunch arranged by Asia Odyssey Travel. On the way there we met a group of schoolchildren on a field trip.

Happy Schoolchildren

A group picture

Restaurant for hot pot

Hot pot lunch

Our final stop in Lijiang is the Baisha Village.  By then we were quite tired and have seen many old towns.  However, we still appreciate our guide taking us to this part of Lijiang.

Liuli Temple


The Old Street


Vendor selling food on the street

A Food Court

Decorated water melons

After two days in Lijiang we were exhausted.  It is truly a beautiful city.  It is the last stop in our tour of Yunnan.  Back in the hotel I was ready to do my laundry again, to get ready for the next part of my trip in Tibet.  The next day our group will split up and each going his/her own way.  Because the hotel is inside the Ancient Town, no vehicles can drive in.  In the morning I had to wait at the street corner about a quarter mile away for the driver to take me to the airport.

That evening I got a surprise call from the front desk of the hotel.  They said I have a visitor.  I went to the lobby and there, a young lady introduced herself as Eileen.  What a surprise!  I have been communicating with Eileen for the past 8 months.  I never heard her voice nor seen her face.  I always wonder if she was just a chatbot.  She put together this complicated China and Taiwan 40-day itinerary for me.  She had driven 5 hours with a friend from Kunming to meet me and give me a gift.  What a lovely gesture!  Thank you very much Eileen!  You are the best!

Eileen and I in the lobby of the Wang Fu Hotel




Sunday, June 14, 2026

Shangri-la

When you think of Shangri-La you think of a place of unparalleled beauty, up in the mountains of the Himalayas, where people live to several hundred years.  It is a mystical, harmonious valley, a happy land isolated from the rest of the world.  This is the image that James Hilton painted, who then came up with the idea of Shangri-la in his book Lost Horizons.

The Shangri-La City that we visited in northwestern Yunnan Province was named after the fictional city in the book in 2001.  It was formerly known as Zhongdian, and was renamed to promote tourism in the area.  

Our van drove from Dali through scenic mountain roads to Shangri-la in about 4 hours.  About halfway we stopped at a rest stop to use the restroom.  We checked into a modern-looking Holiday Inn where we'll spend 2 nights.

A rest stop on the highway

Our guide Sophia met us in the morning at the hotel.  In later conversations with Sophia I learned that she is of Tibetan background.  She learned English on her own so that she can become an English-speaking tour guide.  Employment opportunities are better if you speak a foreign language.  

The first place we visited that morning was the Songzanlin Monastery, one of the most important temple/monastery in Shangri-la.  It was inspired by the Potala Palace in Lahsa and is sometimes referred to as the Little Potala.  About 200 monks reside in 200 associated houses.  The monastery is perched high up on a hill.  It is quite a climb to walk up there but there are shuttle buses to take us up there for 10 yuan or about $1.50.  It was worth the price because it'd have been quite a climb at this altitude (3,380m or 11,090ft) and would take us about 30 minutes to walk up.

Our guide, Sophia (middle), and the tour group

3 buildings that make up the Songzanlin Monastery

Entrance to the monastery 

Inside the monastery


Sophia explained the meaning of the three buildings.  We were given time to explore and climbed up to the top of the buildings.

Gold figurines on the roof

View from the roof



One significant feature of Tibetan Buddhism is the prayer wheel.  I also saw that in Bhutan and Tibet.


Prayer Wheels


A long walk up

Another part of the monastery

After the monastery Sophia took us to the home of a Tibetan family.  It is a big house and all family members live in the house.  She explained the different use for different parts of the house.  The heat generated by the cooking is heating for the house in the winter.  She also explained what they eat for breakfast before they go out to work on the land.  Barley is a big part of their diet and provides the nutrition they need.

Fireplace and kitchen

Another part of the living room

Part of the kitchen

The Courtyard

What they eat. The bowl on top left is barley powder

The Matriarch

In the afternoon we were taken to Pudacuo National Park, also known as Potatson National Park.  It is the first natural reserve park in China.  We took a short hike around Bita lake and enjoyed the beautiful mountain scenery.

View of the lake

Boardwalk for hiking

Description of the area


A white yak

Clean toilets

Boat rides are available

Clean vacuum toilets

A launchpad for drones

Our last stop for the day is Dukezong Ancient Town, which is 1,300 years old.  It is the best preserved and largest Tibetan cluster in China.  The name "Dukezong" means "Moonlight Castle built on a Stone" and it is also known as the City of Moonlight.  We walked through the streets with many of the shops selling either souvenirs or food.










Thangka Institution

I came across an entrance that said "Shangri-la Thangka Institution."  A Thangka painting is a Tibetan Buddhist painting usually depicting a Buddhist scene, deity or mandala (a geometric configuration of symbols).  They are used as teaching tools about the life of Buddha.  One of the most extensive collection of Thangka is in the Mogao Caves near the town of Dunhuang on the Silk Road in western China.  I was fortunate to visit the caves in 2014 and saw the paintings in many of the caves.

To end our day we had dinner at the Ancient Town.  My travel companions had a craving for western food and found a Pizza Hut in the square.  I had no choice but to be part of this dinner.

Pizza in Shangri-la

It had been a long day and we were glad to be back at the hotel.  When traveling it's always a challenge to either find a place to do your laundry, do your own or if you are lucky enough, the hotel has laundry machines.  This particular Holiday Inn in Shangri-la has two washing machines and two dryers and no one was using them.  I happily washed my dirty laundry and was set for the next few days.

I can finally say I have been to Shangri-la.  Although it's not the peaceful, tranquil place that I envisioned it is still a beautiful city.  The mix of Tibetan and Han Chinese demographic makes the place an interesting cultural crossroad.  The name Shangri-la definitely attracts a lot of tourists from all over the world.

A group of tourists dressed as locals

One surprising thing I saw while out looking for dinner the first night is a truck selling only durians.  Having grown up in Southeast Asia where durians is a common fruit and not well-liked by others, this was a surprising sight.  But I read that China has been obsessed with durians the last few years.

A durian vendor