Guerrero Negro and Scammon's Lagoon

Today is the most exciting day.  It's what all of us came on this trip for - to see and maybe, touch the whales.  We spent the night at the Halfway Inn in Guerrero Negro.

In 1978 during winter break and between semesters of graduate school at Arizona State University, my friend, Bill, and I drove my red VW Bug to Guerrero Negro, hoping to see whales.  We started our trip driving south from Phoenix to Nogales, crossed the border and stopped in Hermosillo for the night.  We continued our trip to Guaymas, took the ferry across to Baja California and started looking for Guerrero Negro.  At that time, there was nothing out there and we couldn't find any semblance of a town so we started driving north.  Unfortunately, we were caught in a big rainstorm and was stranded in a small town (that I cannot remember the name).  There were no bridges so we could not continue our trip.  We were lucky to find a place that was kind of a hostel and run by a lady who spoke excellent English.  We stayed here for 3 nights.

We met three Catholic priests from Oakland, California, that had driven down there to conduct mass with the locals.  We watched the 1978 New Year's Eve midnight mass.  We made friends with the priests and had good conversations with them.  After the water receded we drove back up north.  The priests invited us to stop at Hussong's,  a popular American bar in Ensenada.  I have always want to return to Hussong's to see what it's like after all these years.  On the last evening of this trip I will have this opportunity.

Our location in Guerrero Negro

Entrance to the Halfway Inn where we are staying the night

 

Our Schedule for the day

There are several companies operating whale watching expeditions.  The first company we went with is called Marios Tours (www.mariostours.com).  We were first given a briefing about the gray whales - the migration, the whales themselves and what to do and what not to do.  Some of the information were repeat from the lecture at the Birch Aquarium.  However, it's always useful to learn more about the whales.

We drove in mini-vans to Scammon's Lagoon.  We were told that the whales come to this lagoon every year from about October to April.  The reason why they picked this lagoon are because the water is too shallow for the orcas (aka killer whales), which are their natural predators, and the water is also too salty for the orcas.  In fact, there is a big salt plant operating next to the lagoon for many years.

Our group of 18 was split into two groups.  Together with our guides, there are 10 in each boat, called panga, by the Mexicans.

Scammon's Lagoon:

This is one of three lagoons that the gray whales come and spend the winter.  We have 3 opportunities to see the whales.  Two are in Scammon's Lagoon.  The other is San Ignacio Lagoon.  This turned out to be a good choice because the whales in Scammon 's Lagoon are friendlier and swam close to the boats.  

We boarded the pangas at a meeting point and motored about 20-30 minutes to the middle of the lagoon.  Here we started looking for whales.  When we see whales our boatman/guide will take the panga closer.  We waited until the whales start to swim around us.  That's when the fun begins.  We try to splash the water to attract their attention and get them come closer to the pangas.  The first day we had 5 or 6 whales swimming around our two pangas.  On the second visit a mother and baby swam and played around our panga for about an hour.  The following pictures and video say it all.

Boarding the pangas

The whales came so close you can touch them

Close-up of the head

The whales like to be touched

I have been to whale watching cruises around the world:  Alaska, Southern California, Antartica, New Zealand, but most of the time you can see the whales from a distance.  Sometimes only the spout when they blow.  Being so close to the whales and touching them is probably my most amazing experience interacting with wildlife.  Finally, I can say I touch and rub a live whale!

Baja California

San Diego

Our tour started with a late morning meeting in the Marriott hotel in San Diego's Hotel Circle.  This was the first time we met our fellow travelers:  18 from all over the country.  13 women and 5 men.  4 couples and the rest solo travelers.  We started by introducing ourselves and what we did before we (most) retired.  We came from all different professions.

After lunch we boarded a bus and headed for the Birch Aquarium at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in La Jolla.  This is also the campus for the University of California in San Diego.  I have been to La Jolla countless times but I never knew the Birch Aquarium is there.  It was exciting to go there for the first time. We had a lecture on gray whales - their diet, lives and migration.  It gave us a very good understanding of what we'll be seeing later.

Entering the Birch Museum

Statue of Gray Whales

We were then led on a tour of the aquarium by one of the volunteer docents.  The Birch Aquarium is a relatively small aquarium compared to some of the aquariums that I have visited.

A Sea Dragon

A Seahorse

Jellyfish

We next drove to La Jolla shores to see the wildlife along the beach.  I have been coming here for many years because it is one of the highlights of San Diego.  They have improved on the walkway along the shore.  In some places they even allow people to get on the beach, to be close to the wildlife.  But no one is allowed to touch the wildlife.

Variety of birds on the beach

Another view of the beach

Sea lion and bird

Our day ended with a dinner at a popular Italian restaurant called Bucca di Beppo in San Diego's Gaslight District.  The dishes are big, to be shared by everyone at the table.

Crossing the Border into Mexico

Early in the morning we drove about 30 minutes south to the border with Mexico and then crossing into Tijuana.  It is the most populous city in the state of Baja California, with a population of a little over 2 million people.  It has a bad reputation as a destination for gambling and drinking in the early 1900s'.  It also has a bad reputation for crime.  San Ysidro is one of the busiest port of entry.  It is where we legally cross into Mexico.

Cars waiting to cross into Mexico at San Ysidro

We started with a cultural immersion at the mercado (market) in Tijuana.  We stopped at many of the food vendors selling different fruits and vegetables.  They are common in countries in Central and South American but not in the United States.

Prickly pear cactus, which is chopped up and cook with everything

Chayote

Guanábana or Soursop

Tuna - fruit from the prickly pear cactus

Our original plan was to spend the first night in the coastal town of San Felipe, along the coast of the Gulf of California.  However, because of recent violence with the drug cartel in Mexico, our first night was changed to San Quintin.  We were told to stay on the main highway, Highway 1 in Baja California.

On the way we stopped for a bathroom break at the town of San Vicente.  We met other Road Scholar travelers going the other direction.

Museum at San Vicente

South of Ensenada we passed many farms and businesses on both sides of the highway.  

Location of San Quintin

The hotel is located at a beautiful location besides the Pacific Ocean

Hotel in San Quintin

Sunset by the beach

The next day, on March 1, 2026, we drive deeper into the desert.  We also passed many farms that grow produce for the US market.  We took a short hike in the desert to give everyone a taste of what the desert is like.  For me, it's very similar to the Arizona desert, except for the Cardon cactus and the Boojum tree.

Every night our guide Jazz, put up a notice on what to do the next day.

Schedule and plan for the next day

Farms alongside the road

A Cardon cactus, similar to a Saguaro

Hiking in the desert

Boojum trees, only found in Baja California

Whales!

The title of this post says it all.  In a couple of days I will be traveling to San Diego to join a Road Scholar trip to Baja California, Mexico, to see the gray whales.  Officially, the name of the tour is called 

"Mexico: The Great Gray Whale Migration and Baja’s Natural Wonders"

Although the ultimate goal is to watch the gray whales spending the winter on the Pacific coast of Baja California, the trip includes drives through the desert.  As with other Road Scholar tours it is intended to be an educational trip.  This is the first time I am traveling with Road Scholar although I received their emails regularly.  They have many tours of all varieties around the world.

Below is a summary of the 8-day trip:

Day 1: Arrival and Orientation

• Participants check in at the Courtyard by Marriott in San Diego, with luggage storage available until rooms are ready.
• Orientation includes registration, a welcome packet, and an overview of the program schedule, safety guidelines, and logistics.
• After lunch, the group visits the Scripps Institution of Oceanography and Birch Aquarium for a lecture on whales, followed by a nature walk in La Jolla.
• Dinner is at a local restaurant, and the evening is for settling in and preparing for the next day. ​

Day 2: Entering Mexico and Scenic Drive ​

• After breakfast, participants check out and board a motorcoach to cross the border into Mexico, carrying all belongings. ​
• The journey includes a scenic drive along Mexican Federal Highway 1 to Ensenada, with a lunch stop at a private home. ​
• The afternoon features a drive through diverse landscapes to San Felipe, where participants check into a beachfront hotel and enjoy a seafood dinner.

Day 3: Sea of Cortes and Central Desert ​

• A pre-breakfast beach walk is offered before departing for Guerrero Negro, with stops at scenic viewpoints along the Sea of Cortes. ​
• Participants explore the Central Desert, learning about unique flora, including the boojum tree and giant cardons.
• After checking into the hotel, the evening includes a toast and socializing with fellow participants. ​

Day 4: Whale Watching at Scammon’s Lagoon

• Early morning check-out leads to whale watching excursions in Scammon’s Lagoon, with participants divided into small groups for panga boat rides. ​
• Lunch is a bag meal on the boats, followed by a return to the hotel for freshening up and a local beverage tasting before dinner.

Day 5: San Ignacio Lagoon and Town Exploration ​

• Participants travel to San Ignacio Lagoon for another whale watching experience, followed by lunch at an eco-camp. ​
• The afternoon includes a walking field trip to explore the town, visit a local home, and learn to make tortillas.

Day 6: Scammon’s Lagoon and Desert Walk ​

• After checking out, participants return to Scammon’s Lagoon for a final whale encounter. ​
• The afternoon drive to Cataviña includes a walk among unique desert flora, with a tequila tasting and traditional Mexican finger foods in the evening.

Day 7: Rock Art and Return to Ensenada

• An early morning walk precedes a visit to a cave with ancient rock art. ​
• The journey continues with a lunch stop at a historical restaurant, followed by a visit to a local museum.
• Participants arrive in Ensenada for a farewell dinner and toast, sharing experiences from the trip.

Day 8: Departure

• The program concludes with a morning departure from Ensenada, crossing back into San Diego. ​
• Participants are reminded to keep their passports handy and are provided with travel instructions for their onward journeys.

The tour starts and ends in San Diego, which is a very convenient for me.  Originally, I was planning to drive there and leave my car at the hotel.  But the hotel was going to charge me $30 a night to park my car there.  So flying becomes a cheaper and more convenient option.

Today this whale-watching trips are very common.  There are several companies that offer trips in the lagoons to get very close, even touching, the whales and their babies.  Here is a YouTube video posted by National Geographic Lindblad Expeditions of one of their trips:  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mt52wGWn1yI

What's Next? Feedback and Comments Please!

I am taking a break from traveling and spending time in Phoenix and Flagstaff.  At this time of the year, in January, it's nice and warm in Phoenix.  So it's time for golf!  Most golf courses are crowded with tourists and winter visitors (aka snowbirds).  Getting a tee time at an 18-hole course is difficult and expensive.  Not only that, it takes about 5 hours to play an 18-hole round of golf.  In contrast, a 9-hole is perfect.  Less than 2 hours and time for lunch.

This is also ski season - at Snowbowl in Flagstaff, AZ.  It's about a 2-hour drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff and a 30-minute drive from my condominium to Snowbowl.  I buy a season pass every year that is good for skiing from Monday to Friday.  The ski season is short so I take advantage of it as much as I can.  Skiing helps me keep my balance and agility and sharpen my alertness.  Importantly, I "practice" falling as many older citizens hurt themselves from falling.  It's better to practice falling on snow than on concrete.

So far, I have 4 trips upcoming trips planned for 2026 - February/March to watch the Gray Whales in Baja California, a 40-day trip to China and Taiwan from April to June, a trip to Munich for Oktoberfest in September, followed by an OAT Trip to Sicily in October. 

I am most excited about the trip to China because I have not been there for almost 10 years.  I want to enjoy the food, culture and history, and leave out the politics.  For everything you find wrong in China, you can also find something wrong in the United States.  My travels in China start in Shanghai, then Huangshan, Suzhou, and Hangzhou.  Then I fly to Yunnan Province in the southwest part of China, going to Kunming, Dali, Shangri-la and Lijiang.  The next part of my tour takes me to Tibet, where I have always wanted to go.  In Tibet we start in Lhasa, the capital, then Shigatse and Everest Base Camp (EBC).  If you have been following my travels, my friends and I hike to EBC in Nepal in October 2018.  Now I will be going to the northern EBC in Tibet.  EBC is where mountaineers who want to hike to Mount Everest start their climb.  I finally end my China tour in Zhangjiajie.  This is where Zhangjiajie National Forest Park is located.

The China itinerary was put together by Eileen Wu of Asia Odyssey Travel (AOT). Then I fly to Taipei to join another AOT tour in Taiwan, but outside of Taipei, because I have been to Taipei recently but not other parts of the island.  I will finally end my trip by spending 3 leisure days on my own enjoying the food, sights and sounds of Taipei.

Feedback and Comments Please!

I have been writing this blog since 2010 when I went to Hanoi, Vietnam.  I thought I want to share my travel experience with friends and family and anyone who is interested in reading my blog.  I don't make any money but I find it enriching for myself and those who read it.  It makes me think about developing and telling a story, together with photographs, so that those who are not so fortunate to travel as much as I do, can share my experiences.  Some friends tell me they travel vicariously through me.

Over the years many people have followed and read this blog.  Who are you?  What do you think?  How can I make this better?  What places would you like to see me travel to?  If you can post your comments in the public comments section, that would be wonderful.  If you want to send your comments and feedbacks directly to me, you can send it to my email:    k.meng.tay@gmail.com

I may publish your comments in a post so that everyone can know what others are thinking.  I know this sounds like Facebook or Instagram but I stopped doing social media a few years ago, for various reasons.  It will be help me improve this blog if I know you, the readers, give me some feedback.

Thank you very much for reading!

Day 6 and Final Day of Caravan Tour - Ferry Across Gulf of Nicoya and Wildlife Viewing

This is the last leg of our trip.  We checked out of the hotel, hopped on our bus and rode for a little over 30 minutes to the ferry terminal.  We disembarked from the bus and walked to the ferry terminal.  Chieya (our driver) drove the bus onto the ferry.  We scattered around different parts of the ferry.  Some sat in the air-conditioned section at the lower level and some went upstairs and sat outdoors in shaded areas.  It was not hot so sitting outside was comfortable and you get a good view of what's going on.  The ferry ride was almost two hours.

Approaching the Ferry Terminal

Vehicles loading up onto the ferry

Outdoor sitting area

Leaving the Guanacaste Peninsula

More outdoor sitting space

A Snack Bar

A similar ferry going the opposite direction 

The air-conditioned space at the lower level

We finally approached the mainland and got on our bus again.

Lighthouse on the mainland

Vehicles are ready to drive off

Getting back on our bus

Our map location:

We are now in Puntaarenas and headed for the Tarcoles River for a wildlife cruise.  There are many groups here and this appears to be a popular activity in Costa Rica.  The river is adjacent to the Carara National Park and has many different types of wildlife in the mangrove forest.

Our location 

After a quick lunch we were ready for a slow cruise down the river.  Our boat captain and guide pointed out many species of birds and wildlife.

Boarding out boat

A similar cruise boat

Lazing by the river

Vultures waiting for their opportunity

Another crocodile

An unusual and beautiful flower

Difference between a crocodile, alligator and caiman

This is our final activity for the tour.  We drove another 2 hours to the Sheraton Four-Point Hotel in San Jose.  It is a different hotel from the one we started.  I suppose it's because this hotel is closer to the airport.  That night we have our real final farewell dinner.  Following dinner, Aaron surprised us by showing us a 15 minute video of our trip.  Because of its size I have to upload it to YouTube and then insert it into this blog.  Here is the link for the YouTube video:  https://youtu.be/Hy5jE8Q1Y0U

It was a great way to conclude a wonderful tour.

We have a couple of hours before our dinner so I decided to go to a nearby supermarket to buy some local Costa Rican coffee.  I asked for directions and it sounded nearby.  However, when I started walking I realized that there are no sidewalks.  It was rush-hour and the "sidewalk" that I could walk on was only about 12 inches wide.  I think most American would have a hard time walking along and crossing the streets.  Luckily, the locals are nice enough to allow me to cross whenever there is a break in the traffic.  

Like any coffee everywhere there are different qualities and different prices.  I asked the store manager and he recommended a coffee that he said is the best in Costa Rica.  It was about $17 for 300g, which came out to about $26 per pound.  I saw the same coffee at the airport and they were selling for $21 for 300g, or about $32 for a pound! 

Expensive CR specialty coffee

Reasonably priced CR coffee

In spite of its coffee producing heritage Costa Rica today is not even in the top 10 countries in the world.  The five biggest are:  Brazil, Vietnam (mostly Robusta coffee), Colombia, Ethiopia and Indonesia.  We were told that CR is focussing mainly on specialty coffee.

In the morning we were taken by a van to the airport, depending on your flight departure time.  It was a short ride to the airport.  As we go through security I looked up and saw the following sign.  It sums up what Costa Rica is all about:  Pura Vida!

Costa Rica is Pura Vida