Monday, March 24, 2014

Totsiens Suid Africa, Lekker Vakansie!

Today is my last day in South Africa.  I can't believe almost 2 months have gone by already.  I flew from Cape Town to Johannesburg on Kulula Airlines on Saturday morning.  I stayed with my friend, Ashir, for the weekend and am flying back to New York City tonight (Monday, March 24th)
It's been 2 months of enjoying all the beauty of South Africa plus learning more of its history, culture and people.  I've shared with you most of the natural and physical beauty of the country but one can't help trying to understand the people and politics of RSA.  This is what makes the country tick or tock.  So I am going to offer my observation and opinion of what I've seen and experienced in my travels.
The story of apartheid and Nelson Mandela is well-known.  Mandela is as close to god-status as you can get;  just like Abraham Lincoln in the US, Mao-Tse Tung in China, Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam or Winston Churchill in Great Britain.  Not only the blacks love him, the whites as well.  When he was released from prison and became president, he could have turned RSA into a mess.  Instead he asked everyone to forgive one another and looked to the future.  If he had turned the other way, and take it out on the white South Africans, RSA would have been like Zimbabwe today, a poor, impoverished country ruined by Robert Mugabe.
Unfortunately, Mandela stayed only one term as President of RSA.  Since then, the country has not made much progress.  If you ask anyone on the street, the consensus blame is corruption.  Everyone blames corruption in the government as the root cause of all the country's problems.  Regardless of who and what is to be blamed, the economy is not doing very well.   Ten months ago, the exchange rate for the South African Rand, called ZAR, was 9 ZARs' = US$1.  Today it's almost 11 ZARs' = US$1.
In spite of the end of apartheid, there is still a racial divide, at least economically.  If you walk around anywhere in RSA, it's not difficult to spot the ones doing the menial work are almost all black, and colored.  Yes, there are some blacks and coloreds who have attained middle-class status but there are very few, even in the cities.  When I walk into a nice restaurant, the clientele is almost all white and the wait staff is almost all black.  I heard that waiters or waitresses make only about the equivalent of US$300 to US$500 a month.
What this means is that the gap between the rich and poor is very wide.  If you talk to any black person, they seem to be despondent about their situation.  Most seem to lose hope of any chance of advancement.  Some are desperate enough to turn to crime.  It's no surprise that RSA has such a high crime rate.
I was walking in the Cape Town city center area one day and came across a demonstration.  The message is clear:  the current system doesn't work.  They want socialism.

Demonstrators pushing for socialism

You can sense the frustration of a lot of these demonstrators

If you think I am being critical of RSA, I am not.  I am just offering my observation as a traveler.  No country is perfect.  America is a big target and as an American traveling overseas, I hear negative remarks about the US all the time.  Some are valid but some are just misinformation and biasness.  There is no sense in getting into an argument.  Everyone is entitled to their opinion.  And that's exactly what I am offering here - an opinion, after being in this country for 2 months.

The follow-up question is:   Will I come back to South Africa?  Absolutely yes!  There are still so many things for me to see and many places to go.  At the Kirstenbosch Gardens, a group of elderly South African ladies, upon hearing that I am an American, encouraged me to invite my American friends to come and visit South Africa.  I said Americans are afraid of crime.  They said there is crime everywhere.  So so true.

Thank you for reading my blog and traveling with me.  In case you are wondering what the title of this post say, it means "Good-bye South Africa; So Long!"

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Cape Town - Other Highlights

My original plan was to spend about 1 week to 10 days in Cape Town (CPT).  I ended up spending 2 weeks here.  There are so many things to do; I wasn't worried that I'd get bored.  The first few days I stayed at a hostel near Long Street.  The advantage here is that I was able to walk to most of the places of interest and museums in the city center.  I visited of the following museums:  Castle of Good Hope, Slave Lodge, District Six, and South Africa.  I did not go to the Bo-Kaap and Jewish Museums.   The museums are all very well done, focusing on their particular part of South Africa History.  The first one I went was the Castle of Good Hope Museum.  This castle is probably one of the oldest buildings built by the Dutch when they first came to South Africa.  It was used as a refreshment station for passing ships.

Cannon blast at 10 am and noon

Replica of a Khoisan Warrior

Entrance to Castle of Good Hope

Changing of the Guards

The next museum I visited was the District Six Museum.  In the 50s' and 60s', blacks in District Six were forced out of their homes and moved to townships so that the area can be used to build homes and business for whites.  Some of these blacks have been living in this area for years and it was a shocked for them to be force out of their homes and neighborhood.

Inside the District Six Museum

Imagine you can't sit where you want to sit

District Six Museum

Other museums that I visited are the Slave Lodge and the South African Museums.  The SA Museum has very good exhibits on wildlife, archaeology, evolution, and other aspects of things around South Africa.

Lobby of Slave Lodge


Slave Lodge

What is traveling without food?  Because of the very favorable exchange rate, you can have a very nice meal for less than US$20.  They have excellent steaks and seafood.  I found a restaurant that serve wild animal meat.  I ordered a platter that has ostrich, warthog, crocodile and kudu meat.  It was  very nicely prepared and they all tasted good.  I was told about a restaurant in the downtown area that serves Cape Malay food.  I went there and it was actually like a food court.  I'd say they are mostly Indian food, like tandoori chicken, nan, bryani, but they also have Chinese food and Middle-eastern food.  Many of the workers around the area eat there because not only it's good but cheap.  My favorite is the chicken bryani meal and it costs only 35 Rands, slightly more than US$3.

Chicken Bryani with yellow rice and bean soup

Even the Mormon missionaries know about this place

Different varieties of biltong (jerky)

Wild animal meat platter: ostrich, warthog, crocodile, kudu
During my last week at CPT, I stayed at another hostel called Ashanti Green Point.  It is about a 25 minute walk from the CPT city center but it's a nice walk.  Near the hostel is a promenade which borders the ocean and stretch many miles to another area called Sea Point.  This is a beachfront area that cries out "I have money!" It's a popular vacation spot for many from CPT and other parts of South Africa.

Ashanti Green Point

Promenade with beachfront apartments

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Groot Constantia

Groot (pronounced like "hoot") Constantia is the sixth and last of the "must see" places of interest in Cape Town.  It's near Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, so you either have to take a taxi, rent a car, or take a hop-on hop-off bus there.  I did the latter because it costs only 150 Rands and I could go to both places on the same trip.
There are many wineries in South Africa but what is significant about Constantia is that it was started in 1685 by the first governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel, and therefore the very first winery in this country.
It had a such a good reputation that it was requested by European nobilities in the 18th and 19th century like Louis XVI of France and Frederick the Great, King of Prussia.
Other than being the first winery, there is nothing spectacularly different from other wineries.  It has a beautiful setting next to Table Mountain and you can see the vineyards all the way up the slope of the mountain.  They offer cellar tours and wine-tasting.  I did not do any wine-tasting since I've done it in Stellenbosch.  I did have a seafood lunch at one of their two very nice restaurants and had a glass of Pinotage red wine.  Pinotage is a full-bodied red wine, bred in South Africa and it is it's signature variety.
Just walking around the winery gives you a nice, serene feeling.  The greenery, mountains, old buildings, and of course, the wine.  Makes you want to stay there for a few days and take in the fresh air and enjoy the surroundings.  You could be anywhere - France, Italy, US, New Zealand, South Africa, etc.  It doesn't matter.  This place is for you to relax and enjoy.

No question as to what this place is all about


Simon's Restaurant, where I had lunch

A glass of Pintage with my lunch

Some background information on the winery

Some of the old buildings 

Vineyards in a beautiful surrounding

Grapes ready for harvesting

Wine Tasing

Friday, March 21, 2014

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden

The area where Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden (KNBG) is today used to be home to the Khoi San people.  These are the hunter gatherers who thrived here before the first Europeans came to African.  Today KNBG is one of the best botanical gardens in the world.
It changed hands many times over hundreds of years before finally owned by Cecil John Rhodes in the late 1800s'.  When he died, be bequeathed the garden to the country.
The setting for the garden couldn't have been more perfect - it sits on the eastern slope of Table Mountain.  It will take weeks to see the entire garden.  I took a free guided tour of the garden given by a volunteer.  There are several people on the tour, many of them South Africans.  It was an enlightening tour understanding the many different varieties of plants and how the garden works.  The Cape Peninsula area is a Cape Flora Kingdom, which has 9,000 species, two thirds of which are native to the area.  That means you can't find them anywhere else.  That's why the KNBG is designated a UNESCO Heritage site.
In spite of its notoriety, the garden is difficult to get to.  There is no public transportation there so you have to rent a car, take a taxi or get on a hop-on hop-off bus, which is what I took.

Entrance to the garden


Beautiful setting behind Table Mountain

Guinea Fowls

Mandela was here


Vast open green area

Statues from Zimbabwe scattered around the garden

More beautiful statues

Kei Cycad (I think) tree, that has been around for millions of years

A Protea 

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Robben Island

Robben Island is not named after some past colonial master or explorer like a lot of public places in South Africa.  It is Dutch for seal island.  To get there, you take a 45-minute ferry to the island.  You have to buy a 250-Rand (about $24) ticket that includes a tour of the prison facilities.  You can stay on the island as long as you like but after the tour, there is not much else to see.
The first part of the tour is a bus tour that takes you around the island.  The tour guide explains the different buildings and places of interest.  The island has been used as a prison since the 17th century.  Since then it has also been used as a leper colony and during the war, as a military installation.
Today the island is a World Heritage site and popular tourist attraction.  It is famous because Nelson Mandela was imprisoned here for 18 of his 27 years behind bars for his opposition to apartheid.
The second part of our tour is through the prison quarters where our tour guide was a former political prisoner himself.  We walked through the group cells as well as the single cells.  Mandela was in one of those single cells.

Ferry to Robben Island

Robert Sobukwe House

School

A shrine (green dome) to one of the early Muslim prisoners
Quarry where prisoners, including Mandela, worked

A Group Cell, normally with bunk beds

Prisoners slept on mats until the 70s' when mattresses were issued

Guide explaining how the cells work

Nelson Mandela's cell

Hallway to the single cells

Prisoners press alarm if they are very sick

Outside view of prison facilities

Mandela's prison shirt - Prisoner 466 in 1964

Gift Shop and Waiting Area before going back to V&A Waterfront

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

V&A Waterfront

Cape Town named 6 attractions as their "must-see" places:  Cape Point, Groot Constantia (oldest winery), Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Robben Island, Table Mountain and V&A Waterfront.  I plan to go to all six of them.  V&A Waterfront is the third on my list.  This huge shopping and entertainment complex is named after Queen Victoria and her second son Alfred.  This used to be a run-down wharf area until about 20 years ago when some entrepreneurs developed it into a multi-purpose waterfront shopping and entertainment complex.  Since then it's been one of the most popular places to visit in CPT.
First, you have a big shopping mall that has all the same popular stores that you see in an American shopping mall.  It even has a big supermarket, Pick N Pay, in the basement.  Scattered around the shopping mall are many popular chain restaurants, including McDonald's, Mugg & Beans (a popular local restaurant cafe), and high-end restaurants serving seafood, steaks, etc.  Then you have entertainment places like the Aquarium, the Cape Wheel (Ferris Wheel), and Harbor Cruises.  Also included are historical and cultural sites like the Clock Tower, Chavonnes Battery and the Nobel Square, where they have life-size statues of the 4 Nobel Peace Prize winners from South Africa:  Chief Albert Luthuli (1960), Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu (1984) and former presidents FW de Klerk and Nelson Mandela (co-winners in 1993)
This is also where you take the ferry to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for his protests against apartheid.
V&A Waterfront is also a working harbor, where you see ships loading and unloading containers, fishing vessels getting ready to go out to sea again, and ships under repair.
It's an amazing complex of different businesses all coming together in a big waterfront area.

Big Shopping Mall

It's also a harbor

Clock Tower (yellow building)

Artisan market.  This store selling biltong (jerky)

Aquarium

Crafts Market

Nobel Square. L-R: Luthuli, Tutu, de Klerk, Mandela

Hotel and Table Mountain in background

Can't resist getting a picture of me taken with Table Mountain in background

Band Stand with Cape Wheel in background