EBC Days 2 and 3 -Phakding to Namche Bazaar

We started early this morning at 7:45am, knowing that we have a long hike ahead of us to Namche Bazaar.  The hike was fairly steady and climbed gradually at first.  There were many trekkers on the trail, from all over the world.  Some come in big groups.  Some in pairs.  After a couple of hours the climb starts to get steeper.  Our pace starts to get slower.  Those who are fit climbed at a fast pace.  But there were many on the trail who were struggling.  One small step at a time, is the mantra.  However, by my own unscientific judgement, I could tell that some will not be able to make it to EBC.  Never mind the determination, the goals, the intentions, this is a much harder trek that most people realized, including myself.

Tea House in Phakding

Gorgeous view of the river

Hikers along the trail

Beautiful waterfall

Stephanos and Bert crossing a suspension bridge

Vicki coming up the trail 

Occasionally, we come across a yak or mule train coming the other direction.  You have to get out of the way or they will just run you over.  A 300 to 500 pound animal coming downhill has more momentum than you realized.  Imagine how your friends react when you tell them that you have to abort your hike because you were run over by a mule.

A mule train on the trail

Taking a lunch break

Some trails are easier than others

I'm glad I was wearing shorts and no jacket.  I was sweating heavily.  I was listening to an audio book by James Michener on Alaska.  I read this book about 20 years ago and I want to hear if it has any relevance in today's political and environment climate.  The book takes my mind off the fatigue and pain of hiking uphill.   One senior hiker was wearing a T-shirt that says "Beer and Bagels."  He and his wife were going very slow.  I doubt they will make it to Base Camp.  Their bodies tell the story.  They don't look the type who exercise 3 times a week or even once a week.  Why are they here?  Is it a challenge, ego or were they given misleading information.  Over the next few days we met quite a few hikers who fit that category.

At about 3:30pm we stared to see buildings ahead of us.  It's Namche Bazaar, a marketing town where on Friday and Saturday mornings, sellers line the streets selling everything from soap to foodstuff to alcohol.  It's a central market for villagers from the neighboring countryside.  It's the last "big" town before we head into the Himalayan wilderness.  You also find regular shops that sell trekkers necessities, like poles, sleeping bags, clothes, etc.  There are also many tea houses and restaurants that cater to the trekkers.

Vendors selling goods on Fridays and Saturday mornings to local villagers

Town of Namche Bazaar

Shops sell everything that trekkers need

"Busy" downtown Namche

Porters resting on the trail

On the patio of Everest View Hotel, with Mt. Everest in the background

Where is Mount Everest?

We checked into a busy tea-house with a glorified name of Hill-Ten (nowhere near the quality of a similar sounding hotel called Hilton).  Many hikers use Namche as an acclimatization stop.  At 3,500m it allows your body to get used to the thin air.  After a long steep climb, an extra day of rest is most welcomed.  Our legs were still very tired and walking up and down the slopes of Namche is still difficult.  We are staying in Namche on Day 3.

A popular day trek is to the Everest View Hotel where you can see Mount Everest from the patio.  It's about a 2-hour hike away, at an elevation of 3,880m or 12,729ft.  We spent about an hour at the hotel admiring the view of Mt. Everest.  We saw helicopters ferrying passengers to the hotel.  The view along the ridge is amazing - deep valleys and mountain ranges surround us.

Beautiful mountainous landscape

The rest of the group on the trail, including Nutan, our guide

A Bird's Eye View of Namche

A ground-level view of Namche

In the afternoon we took a much welcome hot shower.  Our last shower was when we left Kathmandu.  The shower and fresh clothes feel refreshing.  It also reset our mental state.  We are ready for the next phase of our hike.

Beautiful plants along the way