On the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu - Day 2

Our wake-up call in the morning is 6am.  One of the porters came to each tent and yell something and drop off a cup of hot coca tea.  Not cocoa but coca.  Coca plays an important role in the culture in this part of the world.  It is used as a stimulant, like coffee, by the locals for many years.  Cocaine is a product made from coca leaves through a complicated chemical process.  Therefore, growing and selling coca leaves is controlled by the government.

As part of the hike, we were taught how to wrap and chew coca leaves.  You put a few (maybe around 6-8 leaves) together, add a little bit of ash (from coffee, or anything else), wrap them tightly together and put them in one side of your mouth and chew.  The bundle secretes a juice that is supposed to make your cheek numb and give you an extra boost.  It is supposed to help us through the tough hike.   However, I did taste the juice but never got the stimulant effect.  I may have but I didn't actually feel it.  Maybe I was too focussed on taking 1 step at a time and making sure I don't slip and fall on the wet rocks.  All the locals, including porters and guides, chew them.  We also drink coca tea, which has a similar effect.  I thought of bringing some back to the US but I am sure I won't get past the customs at the airport.

After breakfast at 6:30am, we were ready to start hiking at 7am.  Again, our porters cleaned and packed up after us.  We are now ready for the slow, steep climb.  Day 2 is supposed to be the toughest day.

A bag of coca leaves costing 2 soles

The guide showing how to wrap coca leaves

One of the rest stops on Day 2

A trail on Day 2

Another challenging trail

The challenge for Day 2 is we have to climb a steep mountain to Warmiwanuska, commonly known as Dead Woman's Pass.  This is the highest point that we'll reach - 4,215m or about 14,000 feet.  On this day, those who are not in the best physical condition or suffering from altitude sickness, have the biggest struggle to get to the top.  Even some of the porters have to stop more frequently to catch their breadth.  To make matters worse, it was raining most of the day that day.

Locals selling drinks and snacks at one of the rest stops

The highest point of our climb, Warmiwanuska, at 4,215m

Part of the steep trail

Need to stop to admire the beautiful flowers

We crossed many beautiful waterfalls

Our camp on Day 2 among the high mountains

Day 2 Campsite.  Many other hikers camp here too.

Not only the climb was high, but climbing down was tough too because of the slippery rocks.   I don't think I ever hiked with hiking poles but on this trip I made full use of them.  Both up and down.  Having hiking poles going up means I can use my arms and shoulder to pull myself up.  Coming down is more important because it gave me two extra appendages for stability.  In spite of that I slipped a few times because when I stepped on a rock (lots of them granite) and thought it was stable.  It was not.  Fortunately, they were small falls.  Once, I slipped and fell to my side.  A bush stopped my fall before I had a chance to roll further down.  Whew!  Part of my difficulty was I was wearing running shoes, not hiking boots.  I did not expect the terrain to be so challenging.  Otherwise I would have brought or rent a pair of hiking boots.

Some of the "Speedy Gonzalez's" reached camp at about 12:40pm.  I reached camp at 1pm.  Not bad for an old fart. Just before climbing to the peak, Santiago, our guide, decided that since it was a tough hike, we were going to end our hike for the day at our Day 2 campsite.   For some of us we had the whole afternoon to rest up.  A couple of our teammates struggled and did not reach camp until 3:40pm.  Fortunately, our second guide, Guillermo, patiently stayed and encouraged them.  He provided whatever assistance that was needed and definitely, was a morale booster for them.

We are now away from civilization, hiking on trails that the ancient Incas built themselves to traverse the mountains.  Local residents are not allowed on this part of the trail to sell drinks or food.  We are on our own.  We can't buy water from the local vendors anymore.  Our porters boil water for us to fill our water bottles.  We were given snacks and anything that's needed on the trail.

Candies, cereal bars and oranges for the hike

It is easy to focus on the hike and the difficulty of the hike itself and forget about the beauty of the Peruvian mountains.  Occasionally, I will pause to catch my breath, then look around me.  What beauty, the verdant mountains and valleys, the colorful flowers, the singing birds and the fluttering butterflies.  Made me want to pull out a book, sit on a comfortable chair and just read and enjoy the beauty of God's creation.  Once in a while I will remember to pull out my iPhone and snap a few shots to time-capture what is around me.  I have my big DSLR camera in my bag-pack but it was too much trouble to pull it out.  The iPhone7 did very well.

The beauty of the rugged Peruvian mountains

Pasture where some animals are grazing

Another beautiful view

Looking at a valley

Surprised to see some llamas on this part of the trail

We had our usual dinner at about 6pm.  We were finished by 8pm and were ready for bed after that.  We filled our water bottles with boiled water.  Day 3 is going to be a long day.