Tuesday, December 25, 2018

Grand Tour of Europe

I subscribe to Scott's Cheap Flights, which finds cheap fares and send emails to its subscribers.  I saw one to Europe for about $500 and decided to book a trip to Paris for 3 weeks.  I had not decided where to go but I figured I've been to Europe enough times that I know how to fill up a 3-week itinerary.  After much researching and planning, I decided we were going to start with 4 days in Paris, 3 days in London, 4 days in Switzerland, 4 days in Munich, 3 days in Amsterdam and finally, 2 days in Paris again.

Escargot

Sacré-Cœur

Palace of Versailles, Louis XIV's gilded palace and gardens

Macaroons

Eiffel Tower at night

Crêpe
French Croissant - the best!

No matter how many times you've been to Paris, you never get tired of it.  So many things to see, so many things to do.  Flaky croissant, escargot, crepes, cheese, wine, etc.  Museum, old architecture buildings, churches, monuments, gardens, farmers' markets, etc.  It's easy to get around Paris on the Metro.  Buy a 7-day pass and you can take the train from the airport to the city and also to Versailles.
Hotels are expensive but staying further away from the 1st and 2nd Arrondissement, you will find hotels at a more moderate price.  If you are willing to walk for 30 minutes or more you will see more of Paris.  Eating at a regular French restaurant can be expensive but you can find some reasonable prix fixe (fixed price) dinners in the Latin Quarter, across the river from the Notre Dame Cathedral.

We took an Eurostar train from Gare du Nord train station to London.  The "chunnel" train goes under the English Channel, taking a little over 2 hours for the journey.  That is very convenient compared to the old way of taking a bus or train to Calais and then taking the ferry to Dover, then another bus to London proper.  At London we get off at the St. Pancras/King's Cross station and from there we can take the Underground to anywhere in metropolitan London.  We met my son's family in London and spent three wonderful cold and rainy days together.  Like Paris, London is best enjoyed walking around:  London Eye, Borough's Market, Tower Bridge, Covent Garden, Piccadilly Circus, Chinatown, Trafalgar Square, Buckingham Palace, etc.  We stayed at a hotel on the other side of the River Thames from Big Ben.  Of course, no visit to London is complete with a fish and chips meal.

Borough Market

Iconic Tower Bridge

London Eye, next to County Hall, where we stayed

Fish and Chips at Masters Superfish, near Waterloo Station
The next part of our trip is a 4-day train journey around Switzerland.  Whenever you read about my beautiful train journeys around the world, Switzerland is always on the top of the list with multiple train journeys.  No doubt the natural beauty of Switzerland helps but without the right trains, you can't enjoy the scenery.  I will write more about this train trip around Switzerland in the next post.

After Switzerland, we took a bus from Zurich to Munich, Germany.  It's a 5-hour ride and costs only about US$25 each.  Taking a train would take about the same time if you find one that is direct (no stops) but at a much higher price.  The bus runs almost every hour with a few stops and a ferry ride across a lake.  For another $2 you get to reserve your seat.

We went to Munich for 2 reasons:  to visit my friend Tobias and his family and to see the Christmas markets.  We were there for 4 nights and unfortunately it rained almost every day.  On top of that I contracted a virus on the third night and it caused me to vomit and had diarrhea all night.  A visit to an urgent care clinic with an IV for dehydration costs me a bank-breaking amount of 62€ or about US$70.  In the US it'd have easily costs me at least US$500.

One of the stands at a Christmas Market

In Marienplatz, selling hot wine in front of the Glockenspiel

A live Christmas play
One of the treats of visiting friends in Munich are the local meals.  We were treated to a family-style breakfast spread of cheese, cold cuts, sausage, yogurt, fruits, fresh baked bread, smoked salmon, etc. It was a meal worthy of royalty.  The next morning we were treated to a breakfast at a popular restaurant.  It's so popular that our table reservation was for only 2 hours.  Again, the bread, cold cuts,  cheese and everything was top-notch.  The joy of having friends when you travel.

A family breakfast for the royalty

A towering selection for breakfast for two

German Bread are to "die for!"
The last part of our trip took us to Amsterdam.  We flew from Munich, landed at Schipol Airport and took a 30-minute train ride to Central Station in the city center.  It was easy and convenient.  At the Central Station we took a 15-minute ferry ride to our DoubleTree Hilton Hotel at NDSM wharf.  That may sound like a hassle but we find that it's easier than dragging your suitcases.  The hotel is beautiful and the service excellent.

We took a canal cruise to see the Light Event.  Many places in the city are lit up with special lighting for this once-a-year event.  The next day we walked around the city but I still had remnants of my virus infection so I wasn't exactly in the best shape.  We felt better on our last day in Amsterdam and were able to walk around the city all day.  It was a beautiful walk through parts of Amsterdam that are not frequented by tourists.

Tulips are synonymous with Holland

A tourist boat cruising near the city center

A typical canal neighborhood

Bicycle culture is a big part of Amsterdam

The red light district
From Amsterdam we took a 3-hour high-speed Thalys train to Paris.  It costs about US$150 each.  There may be cheaper options but taking trains in Europe is always a nice experience.  The cabin was spacious and boarding the train was easy.  We took the ferry to the Central Station, scan our tickets to get in, find the right platform and about 15 minutes before the departure time, go up to the platform.  No going through security and no delays.  Americans who had this experience often wonder why there are not more trains in the United States.

At Paris' Gare du Nord train station I bought tickets to the Metro to go to our hotel in the 14th Arrondissement.  It was quite a challenge as there were many stairs to carry up our heavy suitcases.  Unfortunately, I was also pickpocketed between the train station and the hotel.  Being a Friday afternoon, the trains were also very crowded.  We were warned many times in Paris about the pickpockets.  Coming from Amsterdam, Germany and Switzerland, you get a little lax.  All my credit cards were stolen plus other documents.  All the credit card companies, except one, were quick to realize that it was fraud and rejected the transactions.  I did not lose any money.

On the last 2 nights of our trip I intentionally booked a room at an upscale Curio by Hilton hotel in an area that is south of the Seine River and the St. Germain area.  I want to walk in a neighborhood that is different from where we were before.  So, on our last day, we walked from the hotel near the Pernety Metro station towards the popular Le Jardin du Luxembourg (or Luxembourg Gardens), the Pantheon and University of Paris areas.  On our way we were delighted to come across a farmers' market in the Montparnasse area.  Farmers' markets are common all over Paris.  It's how a lot of Parisians shop for their daily staples.  We did not see any gargantuan supermarket like Safeway's or Kroger's in the US.  The meat, seafood and vegetables are not only cheaper but fresher than what you find in the supermarkets.  It was a treat to walk through one.

French dinner at Bistrotters Restaurant near the hotel

Farmers' Market near the Montparnasse Tower (in the background)

Fresh Oysters

Malis Restaurant in Chinatown, in the 13th Arrondissement
For our final dinner we decided to walk to Chinatown (in the rain) in the 13th Arrondissement to find some good Asian food.  We stumbled upon a Cambodian/Thai/Vietnamese restaurant in a shopping center.  It was surprisingly very good and inexpensive.  We were able to converse with the owner in Cantonese and learned about how they live in Paris.

At the hotel we met a fine bartender from South Carolina, fluent in French, and living in Paris because of her parents moving there.  In the morning we stopped at the Police Precinct to lodge a police report on the pickpocketing on our way to take the train to the Charles de Gaulle Airport.
What a lovely 3-week trip it was.


Thursday, December 20, 2018

Doha, Qatar

When I was shopping for flights to Nepal, Qatar Airways kept popping up as the lowest fare airline.  I was a little surprised because I heard that it's one of the best airlines and yet they have to discount so much to get passengers.  Perhaps Trump's policy to restrict several Middle Eastern and African countries has an effect on their business.  I researched further and found that if I stop in Doha, Qatar for more than 12 hours I get a free night stay at one of the hotels.  I decided to jump on that.

I bought a ticket on a flight that stops in Doha for 17 hours on the way from Kathmandu to JFK in New York City.  I purposely booked a room at the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotel, which is actually a collection of 9 unique hotels scattered around the Souq.  The Souq Waqif is a historical market in Doha with a variety of shops, selling anything from pets, spices, traditional sweets and cakes, to having smoke shops, restaurants and even a hospital for falcons.  Falconry is a big sport in the Middle East.

I was in Doha for maybe only 6-7 waking hours but I saw a lot.  I first took a bus from the airport and stopped at the famous Museum of Islamic Art, designed by well-known American architect I. M. Pei.  Pei came out of retirement at age 91 to design this iconic building.  After the museum I walked around the Souq Waqif for a few hours, including joining a tour by the hotel for a couple of hours.  It was an opportune time to visit a different country with very impact on my time and wallet.  Below are some pictures I took during that short visit.

A well-lit Museum of Islamic Art

Lobby of the Museum

A historical pitcher

An old bowl

Shish Kebab for dinner

Falconry is a big sport in Qatar

Qataris love playing "dum", a board game

Vendor Selling Tamarind Juice
Inside the Plaza of the Souq Waqif

Camels are an integral part of the Bedouin Culture

An Arabian Horse
Though short it was a worthwhile visit.  I learned a lot about Qatar and Qataris on the tour.  However, I don't know if I will spend more than 2 days here unless you are very much into Qatar and the Islam religion and culture.

Monday, December 17, 2018

Beautiful Bhutan!

Bhutan has always been on my list of places to visit.  Unfortunately, it's difficult to get to and you either have to travel with a tour group or find a local travel agency to arrange your tour.  Since I was going to be in Nepal, I decided that it makes sense to visit Bhutan after my Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek.  It's only about an hour and a half flight away.

I started early and found three companies on Trip Advisor that I thought had provided good service to other travelers.  I eventually get the best and fastest response from Bhutan Swallowtail Travels.  I received replies to my questions within 24-48 hours, considering the date and time difference.  There was no pressure for me to commit to a tour.  They proposed a 7-day tour and when I looked at the itinerary, it covered only the western part of Bhutan.  I thought it'd be nice to see the central or eastern part as well.  Little did I know that travel from central or east to west is more difficult than it seems.  Bhutan is a mountainous country.  I asked for a 10-day tour and they proposed an itinerary that includes Bhumtang, in the central part of Bhutan.  The final price of the tour, which includes flights to and from Kathmandu to Paro, and a flight from Paro to Bhumtang, was $3,249.

This may sound high but the Bhutanese government imposed a fix price of US$250 per tourist per day.  Part of this money goes towards education, healthcare and other infrastructure needs of the country.  This has the effect of limiting the number of tourists to the country and only those who can afford it.  Most tourists who want to go to Bhutan willingly pay.  Bhutan is a poor country; tourism is one of its major sources of income.

The price is all-inclusive, meaning it includes room, all meals, tickets to museums, temples, a guide and a driver.  Basically, I have a driver and a guide to take me, alone, around Bhutan for 10 days!  How special is that?  I've looked at other group tours.  They inflated the number of days to something like 18 days, but they include travel days and stops in places other than Bhutan.  The number of days spent in Bhutan is still only about 10 days and some of them don't even include Bhumtang.  Those tours cost about US$5,000 per person.

I flew from Kathmandu to Paro on October 25, 2018 on Drukair, a day after my EBC trek ended.  Why Paro and not Thimphu, the capital?  Paro has much flatter terrain for a runway for commercial aircrafts.  Thimphu is in a mountainous area.  There was a lot of confusion on the day of my flight.  Originally, my flight was supposed to leave 0845 hrs but I received an email from the office that my flight has been rescheduled to 1500 hrs.  When I checked in at the airport, they told me that the flight was leaving at about 1330 hrs.  I then waited and waited at the boarding area until about 1400 hrs before the flight finally took off.

I was advised to sit on the left side of the plane, with a window seat if possible.  We were going to fly past the Himalayas Mountain Range and will be able to see Mount Everest if it was a clear day.  Indeed it was.  The pilot announced over the PA system that we were approaching Mt. Everest and I was able to take some pictures of it.  What a sight it was; the peaks above the clouds.

Mt. Everest, above the clouds, as seen from the plane

Here is the basic day-to-day itinerary of the tour:

Day 1  - Flight from Kathmandu to Paro.  Drive to and tour Haa Valley
Day 2  - Haa Valley and drive back to Paro.
Day 3  - Paro, then flight to Bhumtang.  Festival in Bhumtang
Day 4  - Bhumtang Valley Excursion
Day 5  - Bhumtang Valley, Trongsa Valley, Gangtey and Probjikha Valleys
Day 6  - Excursion of Gangtey and Probjikha and neighboring villages.  Punakha Valley to see black-necked cranes.
Day 7  - Punakha Valley Excursion, Thimphu Valley
Day 8  - Thimphu Valley Excursion
Day 9  - Thimphu Valley, Taktsang Monastery - Tiger's Nest
Day 10 - Flight from Paro to Kathmandu



Monk Praying at Monastery in Haa Valley

Decorative Dragons at Monastery

Prayer Wheels

Persimmons, sugar cane and bananas at market

Two schoolgirls at Temple

Fortress in Haa Valley

Festival in Bhumtang
My guide's name was Sangay.  Driver was Dhorji.  We drove around in a small SUV; I alone in the back seat.  Both are native Bhutanese.  Sangay speaks very good English and knows Bhutan's culture and religion very well.  Both attended to me very well every day and every part of the trip.  They helped me with all kinds of things.  I had picked up a cough infection when I was in Nepal.  They offered to take me to the doctor in Thimphu and also bought cough drops for me.  They are both in their 20s' and are very happy to have jobs.  Jobs are hard to come by in Bhutan and tourism jobs are the most rewarding.  During the off-season Sangay goes back to his father's farm in the mountains to help him tend cows.

The hotels were nice but not fancy.  However, they are luxurious by Bhutanese standards.  The meals were eaten at restaurants whenever we are in town and at the hotels in the evenings.  They were all very good.  Bhutanese tend to eat very spicy food but you can ask them to make them less spicy.  I did not once encounter any bad service anywhere.  Bhutanese treat tourists as their guests and with the utmost respect.  Perhaps because of their religious beliefs, they are mild-mannered and treat each other with respect as well.

The highlight of the trip, or for any trip to Bhutan, is the climb up to the Tiger's Nest or more appropriately called Taktsang Monastery.  This is supposed to be a 5-hour up and down hike up the side of a mountain.  You see young and old, fat and thin tourists making the climb.  Some make it in less than 5 hours.  Others take much longer.  From a distance it's an impressive site.  As you get closer, it's even more impressive as you can see the details of the site.  You can read more about the history and details by clicking on the Tiger's Nest link above.

Beginning of the trail


My guide Sangay

Long up and down trail

Trails are well maintained
Tiger's Nest

Bhutan Swallowtail Travels calls this a Happiness Tour.  I met a few American tourists who appeared to be coming here for their religious pilgrimage of sort.  Some of them are on longer tours, like 20+ days or so.  If you expect a fancy place, then this is the wrong country for you.  If you want simple and basic things, a slow lifestyle, unspoiled countryside, nice people, natural surroundings, this is it.  Go before more tourists come and spoil the land.

Memorial Chorten/Stupa in Thimphu


Rice (red rice) is commonly grown in warmer parts of the country

Chendebjee Stupa, near Trongsa

One of many decorative stupas along wall at Chendebjee Stupa
One of my lunch meals

I had a one-night homestay at this farm.  Beautiful experience

This place celebrates everything "phallus"

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan. I get to try it.


Beautiful terraced rice fields in Punakha Valley

Pretty Bhutanese Girl

Kuensel Phodrang / Buddha Point –  51.5 meters  Shakyamuni Buddha statue in Thimpu

Hot chili peppers sold in farmers' market

·       Changangkha Lhakhang/temple – one of the oldest temples in Thimphu