Hawaii - Part 3: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

 Hawaii's origin and life are closely intertwined with volcanoes.  Without volcanoes that would have been no Big Island.  Pele, the mythical God of fire, lightning, dance, volcanoes and violence, rules over the active volcanoes.  The Big Island is made up of seven volcanoes, two of which are underwater.  The five that are visible are Kohala, Hualalai, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Kilauea, from oldest to youngest.  Eruptions over the years have created layers and layers of rock and eventually created a gently sloped shield volcanoe, as Mauna Loa has shown.

The five volcanoes are not technically dead.  They are dormant.  Mauna Loa, the largest of all volcanoes, last erupted in 1984.  Kilauea started erupting in 1983 and continue until 2018.  I remember watch the news, seeing lava flowing into the ocean and changing the physical nature of the island.  

At the beginning there was nothing on the island.  Slowly, the landscape changed by the 3 Ws':  Wind, Wave, and Wings.  As you travel around the island you notice that the soil is all lava rocks.  It's an interesting landscape and over time, seeds blown by the winds and carried by birds (wings) started a lush tropical landscape.  Not the whole island is tropical.  In fact it's said that the Big Island has 11 different climatic zones.

However, the rich lava soil, gently sloping mountain soil plus lots of rain produce what the Big Island of Hawaii is best known for - Kona Coffee.  The farms are located in what is known as the Kona Coffee Belt,  in the southwestern part of the island.  You can read more about Kona Coffee in the link above and why it is so important to Hawaii.

Coffee Trees with Harvested Coffee in Bag

Coffee Beans.  Bright red ones are ready to be picked

The two sites that are best known for its volcanoes are the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (HVNP) and Mauna Kea.  HVNP is about a 2-hour drive along Highway 11 from Black Rock Farm, where we are staying, in Captain Cook.  There are many interesting places to stop and visit along this drive.  One is the Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park.  We stumbled on this Historical Park by accident, as we were exploring the area below where we were staying.  My friend Gary had told me about this place but it did not dawn on me that it was only 30 minutes away.  This site is where native Hawaiians in the old days seek refuge when they break sacred laws, known as kapu, and ask for forgiveness.  It's a very small historical site but bears significance in Hawaiian history.  About 5 minute walk from this site is a popular snorkeling beach called Two Steps.

Sculptures at the Park

Entrance to the Park

About an hour away is the southern-most point in the United States.  It's about a 30-minute detour from Highway 11.  Many come here to take pictures of a sign that tells them they are at the southern-most point of the US.  We did not find the sign.  We say many people jumping off a cliff-side into the ocean.  Another popular attraction nearby is the unique Green Sand Beach.  It's about a 2-3 mile hike from South Point or you can catch a fee-paying shuttle to the beach.

Young Men Waiting to Jump Off the Cliff at South Point

A few miles from where the side road rejoins Highway 11 we came to the town of Na'alehu.  We stopped because we needed a break from the drive.  We saw a couple of vehicles selling fruits along the side of the road.  We approached the lady selling mangoes and bought five mangoes from her for $4.  She told us about another farmer off to a side street selling Hawaiian papayas for four for a $1.  That is an incredible bargain because they normally sell for $1.79 a pound even in a grocery store in Hawaii!  However, we couldn't find the house but saw a building that attracted our attention:  The Punalu'u Bake Shop.  This bakery is well known for its malasadas, a type of Portuguese Fried Dough, similar to a donut.  These were brought over by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawaii to work in the plantations in the 19th century.  

Famous for its Malasadas

Malasadas

Later we found the house that had the papayas outside selling for 4 for $1.  We were also invited by Cathy and her husband Mike, to their house to pick lychees.  We followed them to their farm a few miles away and Mike picked lychees from his trees.  What a treat!  In my whole life of eating lychees I have never picked them fresh from the tree.

Four Hawaiian papayas for $1!

Lychees on a tree

As we drive northeast towards HVNP we passed another well-known place called the Punalu'u Black Sand Beach.  Because the island was formed by volcanoes, after years and years of pounding by the sea, the black lava rocks became sand.  It's one of the few black sand beaches on the island.

Punalu'u Black Sand Beach

The entrance to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is not too far from Highway 11.  The first recommended place to stop is the Visitors Center where you may hear a Ranger giving suggestions on where to get the best views and what interesting things are there to see.  There is a Volcano Village where you can stay inside the park.  There is not much to do inside the park unless you plan to hike.  But it's a worthwhile experience to see the crater and the steam vents.  There are many view points where you can see different parts of the crater.

We were directed to several steam vents along the drive around the rim of the crater.  The steam do not have any sulphuric or rotten egg smell like in other volcanic places like New Zealand and Iceland that I've been to.  If this is your first time it's an amazing sight to see steam rising from the ground.  On some trails you can get close to the rim of the crater.  After the eruption that ended in 2018 some parts of the park are closed.   You can't see very well from the top of the crater but you get an idea of the immensity of the volcano.

Steam coming out of the ground

View of the Crater

Hawaii - Part 2: Poke and Costco

Poke (pronounced Poh-Keh) is a native Hawaiian dish that is made from diced raw fish, usually Ahi Tuna, and marinaded in different sauces like soy sauce, sesame oil, chopped green onions, minced garlic and whatever condiment you want to add to it.  It is served as a side or main dish in the Hawaiian islands.  It's popularity has grown over the last few years that you can find restaurants serving poke in the mainland US and other cities in the world known for their culinary diversity.

Poke is so common in Hawaii that it is sold in almost all grocery stores in the deli section.  It is as common as potato salad or cole slaw or pasta salad.  They come in as many flavors as the store can come up with. Common flavors are shoyu (soy-sauce), spicy garlic, sesame oil, chili pepper, etc.  

Poke in Deli Section at KTA Express, a local grocery store in Hawaii

Poke at the Safeway Store

More Poke at Safeway's

One of the most popular poke restaurants on the Big Island is Da Poke Shack.  It has an extensive menu (click on link to see pictures) of poke dishes.  It is located, not in the main town area where all the other popular restaurants are, but in a touristy beachside condominium.  When we arrived during lunch-time there was a long line waiting outside the restaurant.  Because of COVID-19 restrictions only 5 customers are allowed inside the restaurant at a time to order take-out only.  There are a couple of picnic benches where you can eat your poke or take it somewhere where it's comfortable.  We waited for about 40 minutes before we entered to order.  You have a choice of a bowl or a plate.  The difference between the two being the number of poke selections and side dishes that you get.  The prices are not cheap.  We ordered a bowl and a plate and the price came up to almost $70.

A Poke Bowl with side dish of seaweed and rice

A Poke Plate - 4 types of poke, 2 side dishes and 2 rice

The restaurant is part of a beachside condominium

What does Costco have to do with Poke?  Nothing.  It just happened that this is our first full day on the Big Island and we want to go to Costco after lunch.  I am a big fan of Costco and I want to try to go to a Costco warehouse when I am in a different city because they always offer something local and different.  This is the only Costco on the Big Island and it's on the Kona side.  One thing I noticed right away is that the price of a hot dog and soda is $1.50, just like anywhere else.  Rotisserie chicken is also $4.99, an incredible bargain considering how expensive things are in Hawaii.

They also have locally grown pineapple, mangoes, bananas, purple sweet potato, etc.  I wish they have Hawaiian pineapples, bananas, and mangoes in Arizona.  They taste much fresher and better than the ones imported from Central America and Mexico.   There are other local delicacies as well:  shrimp chips, tuna jerky, frozen Chinese char-siu bao (buns), guava and mango cheesecake and many others.

Hawaiian Apple Bananas

Mango Cheesecake

Guava Cheesecake

On a second visit a few days later we did find poke at Costco.  They seem to price a little higher than Safeway's but perhaps they are better quality.  I don't think you will find poke in other Costco stores on the mainland.

Poke at Costco

Not surprisingly, our cart when we checked out was quite full.  Ahh....the joy of shopping at Costco

You are always at risk of buying too much at Costco

Poke are so popular that they make them daily

Poi - a traditional Hawaiian food

Lau Lau - also a traditional Hawaiian food

Hawaii - Part 1: A Bumpy Road to Heaven

I've been travel-starved since my last trip to Singapore and Sri Lanka in early 2020.  Except for a few trips to New York City to see my kids and grandkids and a 3-week camping trip to Colorado and Utah,  I've been home-bound in Arizona most of the memorable pandemic years of 2020 and 2021.  Earlier in 2021 anticipating that the infection rate would ease up I started to think of some of the safest places I could go without taking too much of a risk.  

Hawaii seems like a good choice although at that time there were very strict COVID-19 guidelines before you are allowed to visit one of the islands.  I've been to Oahu and Maui but not to Kauai and the Big Island of Hawaii.  When I saw my friend Gary posting some beautiful pictures of the Big Island, that made my decision.  I want to go some place where it's not crowded and yet has interesting places to discover.

Gary owns a coffee farm on the Big Island.  I asked for recommendation for an inexpensive hotel.  He suggested the Manago Hotel.  It's a no-frills simple hotel that has been around for over 100 years.  You can get a room for about $500 a week!  Compared that to all the fancy hotels with bells and whistles that may charge you up to $500 a night!  In May when Southwest Airlines announced that they are starting service to the Big Island, all the other airlines match its prices.  I was able to purchase a round-trip ticket with Delta Airlines for about $300 or 30,000 Delta SkyMiles.  Then I reserved a medium-size car through Costco Travel but it costs $1,000 a week!  Apparently, in 2020 during the pandemic, all the rental car companies sold their inventories and cancel their new car orders.  This created a big shortage of rental cars and the prices shot right up.

Then in June Gary made me two offers that are hard to refuse.  He offered to rent me his late wife's Jeep for a very nominal amount.  A few weeks later he told me he wasn't going to be back in Hawaii when I am there.  So he offered to let me stay at his house, again for a very nominal amount.  His house is on his coffee farm overlooking the ocean.

We were picked up at night by Gary's step-daughter Scarlett and driven to his house.  It was dark and we couldn't see where we were going but it was mostly a bumpy unpaved road.  You need a 4-wheel drive to get up there.  

In the morning when we went outside it was one of the most beautiful views you can ask for.  Right below us, on the left and right are rows and rows of coffee trees.  Over the horizon is the Pacific Ocean.  This is going to be a tough two weeks - staring down at a very tropical green hillside, with mango, papaya, avocado, breadfruit and coffee trees, and a deep blue ocean beyond.  A heavenly site indeed!

The unpaved road up to the house

Rows and rows of coffee trees

Coffe Beans.  Only the dark red ones are to be picked.

A panoramic view from the lanai (patio) of the house

Coffee trees everywhere.  In the middle are some banana trees

It's green everywhere!

Sunset photo by Gary from his lanai

2020 - Year of the Pandemic and (Almost) No Travel

I started writing this blog post in July 2020 but was not motivated enough to finish it.  It's now almost the end of the year.  I want to document what happened in this unforgettable year.

2020 has been a unique year that everyone hope will never repeat again.  It's the year of the pandemic, with the COVID-19 virus ravaging around the world.  It froze all normal human activities - businesses, schools, recreation, travel, etc.  Travel, especially international travel, is pretty much frozen, due to social distancing guidelines.  Every country and every state has their own rules regarding outsiders coming into their territory.  Air traffic came to a halt.  It is a very sad time for the world.

I was lucky to have traveled to Singapore and Sri Lanka at the beginning of the year before the crisis started escalating.  In March almost all travel, both domestically and internationally, shut down.

Because of restrictions for international travel, most Americans decided to stay home and travel domestically.  Even then, you have to make sure you don't go to crowded places and hopefully, most people wear face masks.  One type of travel that became popular during this time is traveling with a Recreational Vehicle (RV).  In some countries this is called a caravan but in the US, it is commonly know as a RV, whether it be a big motorhome, a trailer, a 5th wheel, or just a camper van.  The reason being that you are isolated from others most of the time so that you won't be infected with the COVID-19 virus.  

Doris and I decided to take our Casita Travel Trailer around the southwest for three weeks in July when cases in Arizona were spiking.  We did not have any planned itinerary but mostly, we'll travel to Colorado and Utah.  Our first stop is at Mesa Verde National Park (NP).  Although I've traveled through this area many times I've never felt the desire to stop here.  I found a nice campsite, Mesa Verde RV Park.  It is only about a mile from the entrance to the Park and provided all essential amenities - water, electricity, and sewer hookup.  It's a very well-run and clean RV park.  In normal times this place would've been fully booked in July.

We visited the park after we arrived.  It is not as grand or scenic like the Grand Canyon or Zion but it holds some ancient Indian ruins.  It was not crowded but some of the ruins were closed.

 Cliff Palace where the Ancestral Pueblos lived in the 1100s'

The next day we drove about 1 1/2 hours to Durango.  We walked around the downtown area, then drove about 30 minutes to where we took the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Train.  Normally, we would've taken the train from the downtown train station but because of road construction we had to board the train at a different station.  This railroad was built in the late 19th century to transport silver and gold mined in the San Juan mountains.  It was about a 2-hour train ride one-way through some beautiful mountain scenery.

    Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Train

We took a side trip to Telluride where I ski almost every year.  It's a very different look in the summer, the ski slopes being used for mountain biking and golf.

We then spent 2 nights at friend Sally and her husband Greg's beautiful ranch property just outside of Durango.

Following Durango we started heading north towards Gunnison.  On the way we stopped briefly at Silverton, then Ouray, sometimes called the Switzerland of the Rockies.  Having been to Switzerland several times I'd say it's not even close.

    Stopping in Ouray

       

It was a beautiful climb through the Rockies, passing through Montrose and finally camping at the Mesa Campground just outside of Gunnison.  The next day we drove to the beautiful town of Crested Butte and spent the day walking and enjoying the views.

    Downtown Crested Butte

Next we drove north towards Breckenridge to meet with my IBM friend Felix and his wife Sharon in Dillon for lunch.  That night we looked for a nice place to park our RV but ended sleeping in the parking lot of the Walmart at Frisco.  It's the first time we camped at a Walmart but the experience was very pleasant.  Of course there was no hookup but for 1 night it worked very well.

    Lunch with Felix and Sharon in Dillon    

Since we were so close to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) we decided to head that way.  It was a little over a 2-hour drive and we booked 3 nights at the Spruce Lake RV Park, just outside the entrance to the park.  The first day we drove into the park and stop at many of the view sites to enjoy the scenery.

    One of the beautiful views at RMNP

Estes Park is a town just next to the RMNP.  I've heard a lot about how beautiful the town is and it sure was.  We took a shuttle bus from the RV park to town and found a Farmers' Market.  We also strolled along the river walk and through the downtown area.  Normally, at this time of the year, Estes Park would be very crowded.  Not so this year.

    Strolling along the river walk in Estes Park

We decided to drive through Utah on the way back to Arizona, stopping at Arches, Bryce and Zion National Parks.  Our next destination was Grand Junction, which would put us less than 2 hours from Arches National Park.  We had a very nice experience camping at the local Walmart. There is a Texas Roadhouse restaurant right across the street, where we had a nice dinner.  The store was closed and the parking lot was empty by 8pm.  In the morning we went into the store to buy some essentials and breakfast from the McDonald's restaurant inside the store.  

    Camping at Walmart

We parked our trailer at the Arches National Park Visitor Center and drove around the park for about 2-3 hours.  It was enough to give Doris a glimpse of what it looks like and take some pictures.  We didn't have time to hike and even if we did, we wanted to social distance from others.

    One of many arches at Arches NP

From Arches we drove to Bryce Canyon National Park where we were lucky to find space at the Ruby's Inn RV Park for 2 nights.  The RV park is literally just outside the entrance to the park.  We took the park shuttle to different viewpoints around the park.  Surprisingly, the park was not very crowded.

    Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon No Problem

About 2 hours from Bryce Canyon NP is another very popular national park - Zion.  It is always crowded and even with the pandemic it was still very crowded.  The shuttle buses were running in the park and masks were required.  However, they were not enforced so many visitors after getting on the shuttle buses took off their masks.  At the shuttle stops many hikers congregate together without wearing masks and no social distancing.  We quickly decided to leave the park.

    Zion National Park

Our next destination is the north rim of the Grand Canyon National Park.  Most visitors going to the Grand Canyon go to the south rim, which is more accessible and open year-round.  We had a choice of camping in Kanab, UT, or Jacob's Lake, AZ.  Not knowing what time we'd leave Zion NP I made reservations at the J&J RV Park so that we can set up camp before it gets dark.  We were hungry when we go to Kanab and had one of the best Mexican meals at the Escobar's Mexican Restaurant nearby.  

It looks us about an hour and a half to drive to the north rim of the Grand Canyon.  In the past you could see bisons grazing along the highway into the park.  However, this time there weren't any.  They have probably gone to graze somewhere else.  We hiked to some viewpoints and had excellent views of different parts of the canyon.  The lodge and most of the restaurants were closed and the park was not very crowded.  We left after about 3 hours and started driving towards Flagstaff.

    North Rim of Grand Canyon NP

We gained an hour driving back across Arizona and arrived at the J&H RV Park in Flagstaff early enough to check-in.  This is a small family-run RV park just outside of Flagstaff.  We've stayed here previously and like the cleanliness and amenities it provides.  This includes wifi, cable TV, clean bathrooms and showers, full hookups and friendly service.  I always need help from Harvey, the owner, to backup into my trailer spot.  We spent 4 nights here enjoying the cool weather and some hiking.  We were in no hurry to go back to Phoenix, where it had been over 110F almost every day.  

    Enjoying a hot-pot dinner in Flagstaff

After 3 weeks of travel we were ready to head home to Phoenix.  Certainly we were not looking forward to the heat.  2020 is not only the year of the pandemic but also a year of record heat for Phoenix.

In spite of the pandemic I traveled to NYC to see my kids and grandkids in August.  I had to quarantine for 2 weeks when I got there but it was well worth it.  I went with my daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter to Vermont for a week and spent the rest of the time in Manhattan.  Restaurants were opened for take-out or outdoor dining.  Things were started to get back to normal but everyone followed the rules, mainly, they all wore masks.  I went to Chinatown several times to buy dinners or groceries.  We even went to Costco, a treat for my son's family, who have never been there.  

    A Family Dinner in NYC

In November Doris and I took our trailer to Silver Strand Campground in San Diego.  We camped for 3 nights then drove to Monterey Park to visit her parents.  I took the trailer to Yosemite by myself and was planning to stay 3 nights but ended up staying 2 nights.  Camping at a RV site in Oakhurst it was a longer drive to Yosemite Village then I expected.  Although the distance was not long, around 20 miles, it took an hour to get from Oakhurst to the Village.  The road was winding and you can drive at around 25mph most of the way.  Some of the popular spots were closed for the season.  It was a disappointing trip.

    Yosemite National Park

In late November the number of COVID-19 cases started to spike again and it's time to stay home.  I am finishing this post on Christmas Day.  The next few months look bleak.  About 330,000 have died and cases are rising all over the US and the world.  Two vaccines have been approved and vaccinations are starting.  I am hoping to get my shots by March.

2021 should turn the corner - with a new Biden/Harris administration.  Trump's influence would be dying and hopefully, will disappear from American politics forever.  America MUST NOT have another president like Donald Trump again.  It's been a rough 4 years and a disastrous 2020.

Sri Lanka, Part 6 - Galle, Colombo

We are down to the last 2 days of the tour.  Our next destination is Unawatuna, a coastal town just before Galle.  Leaving the countryside means we are heading to more traffic along the coast.  This is a heavily touristic area.  Many tourists come here to enjoy the beautiful beaches of SL.  Businesses that cater to these tourists are everywhere.  The highway gets choked with cars, scooters and motorcycles ridden by these tourists.  Mohan stopped at a roadside stand and chatted with a woman who was selling roasted cashew nuts.  I bought a small bag from her for 1,400 rupees.  Definitely more than what I pay for at Costco but I am helping her make a living.  I love cashew nuts.  Here is a video on how they are picked from the tree to being processed for consumption:   Cashew Nut Processing

Woman selling cashew nuts on the roadside

A raw cashew nut

We inched our way through the coastal highway to get to our destination in about 4-5 hours.  We were supposed to tour Galle but it was late.  We checked in to the Rockfort Hotel at almost 5pm.  I was tired and took a short nap.  The back of the hotel edges up to the beach.  It was already dark when I took a short walk on the beach.  It was lit but I did not go far.  There are many European tourists, maybe Germans, staying at the hotel.  They were part of a family or in a big group.

I still had some remnants of the upset stomach.  I was hoping I could eat but I took a few bites and stared longingly at the dinner.  I went back to my room and worked on my blog.

In the morning my stomach was feeling a little better and ate a little more food.  I walked on the beach and took a few pictures.  Mohan came to pick me up at 9 and we are headed to Galle.

Rockfort Hotel in Unawatuna

View west from the hotel deck

A Paradise View from the beach

Another beach view near the hotel

The road we took to Galle hugs the busy coast.  Lots of activities going on:  tourists swimming on the beach, shops catering to them, and fishermen and customers mingling at makeshift fish stands.  We stopped at a few of these places to take pictures and I even participate in the hauling-in of a fishing net.

Fishing boats after the morning's catch

Helping fishermen hauling in the net

Lots of fish to sell

Catch of the Day

A fishmonger showing off his catch

Galle is a major city on the southwestern tip of Sri Lanka.  Because of its strategic location on the seagoing route between Europe, Middle East and Asia it has long been a stopping point for Persian, Arabs, Greeks, Romans and Chinese merchants.  It was occupied by the Portuguese in the 1500s', who then lost to the Dutch in the 1600s', and was finally occupied by the British starting in 1796 until Sri Lanka's (then Ceylon) independence in 1948.

We walked around the old part of Galle and saw many remnants of the colonial days.  Most prominent is the Dutch Fort, a World Heritage Site.

All Saints Church, built by the Dutch

A Clerk with his Olympia typewriter at the Archaeological Museum

Corals and limestones were mixed to build the fort

Galle Lighthouse

A Mosque next to the Fort. Malays were brought to SL by the Dutch

A Muslim Association Building

A College Marching Band practicing next to the Fort

Clock Tower in the Rampart

A watchtower in the rampart

A Plaque showing when the Galle Lighthouse was built

Part of the Fort

Statues on the Rampart

At about noon we took a 2-hour drive north towards Colombo.  Like any major city the roads are choked with traffic.  Colombo is a city of almost 6 million.  It is the capital and financial center of Sri Lanka.  As we drove around we see many high-rises and high-end hotels like Shangri-la, Hilton, Cinnamon, etc.  Having been occupied by the Portuguese, then the Dutch and finally the British, there are a few historical landmarks but it's just another bustling city.  We took a few walks around some notable places and streets.

We stopped at a few pharmacies to look for medical masks.  All of them were sold out.  This is during the height of the corona virus pandemic in China.  SL had only 1 case but there are several in Singapore.  Masks are sold out all over the world.

Dinner with Mohan and his family at the Cinnamon Hotel

A former lighthouse

Independence Monument

A Bustling Street in the Heart of the City

The Red Mosque

Street Vendor Selling Pickled Fruits

I ended my visit to Sri Lanka with a dinner with Mohan and his family.  It was Valentine's Day so most of the restaurants were packed.  We were lucky to find availability in the Courtyard Restaurant in the Cinnamon Hotel.  It was a beautiful and generous buffet dinner that all of us enjoyed.  Mohan and his family gave me a memento - a picture frame of photographs that we took together.

Memento from Mohan's family

Early in the morning Mohan picked me up and took me to the airport.  Security here is not the most efficient.  I had to go through four screenings before finally arriving at the gate.  I checked into the Lotus Lounge and had some breakfast.  It will be a 3 1/2 hour flight to Singapore.  A few of the passengers wore masks but most acted normally.

It was a wonderful and educational trip to SL.  I knew but didn't know much.  Seeing and experiencing first-hand the country gave me a different perspective and understanding.