On Board the MS Roald Amundsen

Roald Amundsen was the first explorer to reach the South Pole in December 1911.  It was a race between his team and a British team lead by Robert F. Scott.  Scott arrived a month later.  Sadly Scott's team did not survive the journey back.  The ship MS Roald Amundsen was built in 2019 especially to sail in Antarctic waters.

MS Roald Amundsen

It can normally carry a little over 500 passengers but because of the pandemic our ship has only about 250 passengers.  The ship has 11 levels.  The passenger cabins are from Level 4 to 9.  Level 3 is where they launch small boats for shore excursion.  It's also where the Medical Center is located.  Level 10 has the Explorer's Lounge where you can stare out of the windows in comfortable chairs.  There's a bar that serves alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.  At the stern are two jacuzzis, a swimming pool and an observation deck.  All these are outdoors.

Here is more information about the MS Roald Amundsen

Spacious Cabin

Bathroom

Dining Room

Outdoor Running Track on the 11th Level

Outdoor Jacuzzi

The ship has an indoor gym on the 7th level and an outdoor track and some exercise equipment on Level 11.  With so much food and idle time passengers do need some way to burn off the calories.  It also has a co-ed sauna, a Scandinavian favorite.  I enjoy the outdoor walking/running track on Level 11.  Each lap is about 150m which means you have to walk 11 laps to have walked about 1 mile.  I try to walk the track at least once a day.  It helps to keep the body active and perhaps build up an appetite.  When the weather is nice and calm it's such a pleasure to walk the track.  However, when the weather is nasty you can feel the biting cold and if the wind is strong you can almost be blown off.

Explorer Lounge on Level 10

Indoor Gym

Eating goes hand-in-hand with cruising.  The abundance of food and choices is part of the game.  This ship has 3 restaurants:  Aune, Fredheim and Lindstrom.  The first two are for all passengers.  Lindstrom is for passengers staying in suites.  This means they pay enough money to warrant having a restaurant of their own.  All other passengers who want to eat in the Lindstrom have to pay an extra 25€ or almost US$30 per meal.  Fredheim is a casual-style restaurant serving burgers, milkshakes, waffles, etc.  If you want something simple and not too big, this is the place to go.  Aune is a little more formal, with multiple courses per meal.  Beer and wine are served here.  I usually eat in Aune and after a couple of days got to know the waiters and waitress serving in that section.  Unfortunately, it's hard to turn down good meals  Often I have to take a walk on the Level 11 deck to ease my over indulgence.

King Crab Roll and Yakitori for Lunch in the Fredheim

One remarkable fact about this ship is most of the manual work are done by workers from the Philippines.  When I first got on board I heard some chatter in the lounge area and recognized right away it's Tagalog.  This is the national language of the Philippines.  They are recruited because of their low wages, English fluency and are hard workers.  They do all the manual labor - kitchen, dining room, housekeeping, mechanics, bar-tenders, etc.  Working on a cruise ship may sound like glamorous or fun because you get to go to many foreign countries.  Not so.  These workers work long hours, at least 10 or even more.  They are away from their families for months.  I am sure some of them miss their family.  On the positive side they can save up a fair amount of money that they can buy land or houses in the Philippines.  

On the first day we were directed to sit at a certain table.  Mine was somewhere towards the back of the ship.  Each section is served by a team.  After a while you get to know your servers and they know you and what you like.  The team that served me almost every time I go to the Aune Restaurant are:  Shelly Ann (nickname Goosy), Arthur and Theo.  They are so efficient, helpful and friendly.  Being an Asian myself I felt a little kin-hood with these servers.  They have been on multiple cruises, which means that they have been away from home for a few months.  It must be hard for them and their family but they never show it.  They are always cheerful and willing to bring you your favorite food.  I know that sometimes they are tired and probably a little homesick but they never showed it.  I hope most of their customers will tip them generously when they get off the ship.

L-R:  Theo, Arthur, Shelly Ann (Goose)

There is not much to do on the ship.  Normally there would be some activities conducted by the crew but because of the pandemic, face-to-face contact is minimized.  Information is disseminated through the Hurtigruten App which everyone must download.  Activities, programs, menus, meal bookings, etc, are all done through the app.  I don't know how those who are not comfortable with new technology cope with this vehicle.  Everyone must wear a mask when you leave your cabin except when you are eating.  Strict COVID prevention protocols are followed.  In spite of all these restrictions I can sense that most passengers are happy to be able to travel.

The passengers are from all over the world.  A sizable number are from Germany and quite a few from the US and Canada.  There are also some French passengers.  As a result announcements are made in all 3 languages.  Unless you came in a group there is little interaction with other passengers.  Sometimes you jump into a conversation because you hear something that want to chime in but mostly passengers stick to themselves.  I am used to traveling by myself so I am okay with that.  I downloaded a book called "The Code Breakers" by Walter Isaacson on my Kindle.  It's about CRISPR, the new gene editing tool and the scientists, especially Jennifer Doudna, behind it.  It's a fascinating story.  I finished it halfway through the cruise.  Unfortunately, the internet on board is too slow for me to download another book from the Phoenix Library.

I brought along a hard disk that has about 20 movies on it.  Soon I will be watching the movies.  I've been staring out into the gray waters of the ocean and it's becoming monotonous.  Yesterday we saw a pod of whales in front of the ship.  That was exciting.  This is the first time I saw whales since we came on board.  

Second Visit to Santiago

 I visited Santiago in February 2018 as part of my big South American trip.  Here is my impression of Santiago then.  During that first visit I had the benefit of having a tour leader to tell us where to go and what to do.  We also joined a Free Walking Tour that gave us a very good background and history of Santiago and Chile.  Unfortunately, because of the pandemic the tours4tips is not running.  I tried to remember the places we went but I couldn't remember much.  One place I remembered, however, is the Central Market.  There were many restaurant there and I had ceviche and another dish.  It was too much food but I enjoyed the ceviche very much. 

I was dead tired after I checked into the Sheraton Hotel.  I tried to have lunch but the restaurant was closed.  I went to take a long nap.  After I woke up at about 4pm I tried to go to the restaurant.  Again, it was closed.  I asked one of the receptionists where I could go for a meal.  She suggested walking to the Costanera Center Tower, a 20-minute walk away.  As I described in my previous post I had a very nice Peruvian dinner at the Tower.  

Sheraton Hotel in Santiago

I woke up fresh the next morning and had a very nice buffet breakfast at the hotel.  The server staff was friendly and helpful.  After breakfast I was ready to set out on my walk to the Plaza de Armas, then to the Mercado Central.  Being a Sunday they closed one of the highways that runs next to the river.  This becomes a popular place to bicyclists, runners and walkers.  I was able to enjoy my slow walk towards the Plaza.  I got detoured a few times but finally found my way to the Plaza.  The central square is a typical feature of towns and cities that were occupied by the Spanish, whether it's in Mexico or anywhere in South America.  It's the gathering place for the locals and where a lot of are happening.  You find people justing sitting around, playing chess, musicians playing, etc.  It was busy 4 years ago when I came as it is this time.

Bird's Eye View of Part of Santiago

Plaza de Armas

Pedestrian Walkway to Mercado Central

From the plaza is a pedestrian mall that takes you to the Mercado Central.  On this Sunday there were many vendors selling things:  electronic stuff, food, clothes, etc, and even crooks playing a dice game.  As you get closer to the Mercado you start to see fruit and vegetable vendors.  My plan was to have a seafood lunch at the Mercado.  But after checking out the seafood vendors I wasn't hungry.  

Variety of Seafood Sold Here

Mercado Central

I saw other street vendors across the street and started heading there.  Then I realized I was going into another market, this time the Mercado Vega or vegetable market.  Not only were they selling fruits and vegetables but one part of it also sells meat.  Being a Sunday it was very crowded.  On a mezzanine level there are many local restaurants.  I wished I was hungry at that time because all the food looked delicious.  They have Chilean and Peruvian food.  All the vendors were very generous in allowing me to take pictures of them.  Some of them even posed.  As I've mentioned in other posts I love going to the local markets.  It gives a view of how the locals live and what sustain them.

Fruit Sellers

Spices

I stopped a couple of times to have something to eat and drink.  The first was an empanada stall.  Empanadas are baked or fried turnovers with some kind of fillings inside.  It's very popular in south America.  Almost every culture has something similar to an empanada, and with different names.  It can be a snack or a meal.  I think I paid about 12,000 chilean pesos or about US$1.50 for one.

On the way out I saw a stall selling smoothies.  I was more interested in the fruits that they put in the smoothies than the smoothie itself.  I ordered one with papaya, cherimoya,  guanobano and milk.  Cherimoya and Guanobano come from the same family.  The former is sweet and the latter is sour and is sometimes call soursop.  When I saw the lady put frozen instead of fresh fruits in the blender I was a little disappointed.  It was almost tasteless.  

Woman Selling Smoothies

I walked back the same way towards Plaza de Armas.  Midway through I saw a small crowd surrounding a man playing with 3 cups and some dices.  Gamblers are to guess which cup contains the dice.  This is a familiar con game that is played around the world.  I've seen them in Berlin, Barcelona, etc.  Like the saying goes, "there is a sucker born everyday."  I took a picture of the scene and as I walked away someone stop me asking me to delete my pictures.  He took my phone and I showed him that I took only 1 shot but he insisted on going through all my pictures.  That was a close call that I wasn't expecting.

I wish they were still running the Walking Tours.  It would have given me a better appreciation of some of the places in Santiago.  Overall, it was a long and wonderful day exploring Santiago.

Phoenix to Santiago CHILE

 My day started at 5:30am when my neighbor Jolly came to take me to the Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport.  At the Delta Airlines counter the agent checked all my required documents:  Chilean Mobility Pass, Negative PCR Test, the Chilean Government Affidavit and of course, my passport.  These are all required before they would allow me to board the plane.  Then I went through airport security.  Luckily I have CLEAR, a program that expedites you through the waiting line using biometric identification.  Then I go through TSA Pre-check, a program that waives some of the detail check like taking off your shoes and jacket, taking cameras and laptops out of your bags, etc.  Another program that expedites my return from overseas is Global Entry, which saves me a lot of time and anguish when going through US Immigration and Customs.  Since I travel so much internationally all these programs make travel less aggravating.

Now I am about two and a half hours early before my flight.  Again I make life easier by going to the Delta SkyClub; access was given through my American Express card.  I spent two hours relaxing and having breakfast before heading to the gate.  I was one of the early boarders, again through another American Express card.  

The first leg of the flight was uneventful.  It took 3 hours and we were in Atlanta.  Now I have almost 6 hours to kill before my flight to Santiago.  Luckily I was able to find a quiet corner and kill time at the Delta SkyClub.

We boarded the flight to Santiago slightly late.  There was a lot of activity at the gate and the agents were about 15 minutes late in boarding us.  They don't usually tell us but I suspect that they were delaying the departure because they have to wait for other connecting passengers from other flights.  Atlanta is the home of Delta Airlines and is their major hub.  After I boarded the plane it appeared to be half empty.  But 15 minutes later a big group of passengers came on board.  I think these are the passengers whose connections were late.

I dozed off for about an hour when the flight took off.  Two hours later they were ready to serve us dinner. Having eaten a big lunch at the Delta SkyClub in Atlanta I wasn't very hungry.  As soon as dinner is over they dimmed the cabin lights.  Most passengers started to fall asleep.  This is the part of travel I hate most - I CANNOT sleep on airplanes!  I usually ended up watching movies but nothing appealed to me.  I started watching Alexander the Great but it was a long movie.  Almost 3 hours long!  I gave up almost half way through.  Sometimes I'd play classical music to make me drowsy.  Unfortunately the music player was not working.  I was not in the mood to read.  In the end I just closed my eyes, without falling asleep. 5 hours, 4 hours, 3 hours,......and finally we touched down at the Santiago airport.

Exiting an airport after a long international flight is always a dreadful experience.  That's why I applied for the Global Entry Program.  In normal times it may take perhaps an hour.  These are not normal times.  Because of the COVID pandemic every country has put barriers or restrictions to slow down the spread of the virus.  In the case of Chile, as I mentioned before, I have to have a negative PCR test before they give me an affidavit to enter the country.  They also require me to have at least $30,000 worth of medical insurance.  

After waiting a long time in a line it was my turn to have my documents checked.  Then I was given directions to get my mouth and nostrils swabbed for a PCR test.  It was not the most pleasant experience.  Only then was I allowed to exit the airport, after 2 1/2 hours!  

I first have to look for an ATM so that I can get local Chilean pesos.  This is probably the safest and cheapest way to get local currency.  I have an ATM card from Charles Schwab that reimburses me for any ATM fee that I incur, which basically means I don't have to pay any ATM fee.  However, I don't think it's totally free because Charles Schwab uses your cash for other purposes while it's sitting in their checking account.  Nevertheless, I have to pay an extra ATM fee if I use my other Bank of America ATM card.

Using a foreign ATM machine is always a scary experience.  The worst case is the machine swallows your ATM card and refuses to give it back to you.  Or, trying to decipher a foreign language may not be the easiest thing to do.  Luckily somewhere in the menu it asks if you want the information in English or have the UK or US flag for you to choose.  In this case I found the right button and I was able to get my cash  withdrawal in English.

Although the instructions given by the Chilean government said that you are only allowed to take chartered buses or official taxi to the hotel, there was no one at the airport to enforce it.  However, when in a foreign country I always look for the official or anointed taxi agency.  There you tell the person at the counter where you are going and he or she will write you a ticket.  Then you go outside and give to the dispatcher who calls on the next taxi in line.  You may pay at the counter or the taxi driver directly.  Never never take a taxi with someone who randomly approaches you at the airport.  You are almost certain to be cheated.

Hurtigruten booked its passengers into the Sheraton Santiago Hotel on the first night.  Because of all the uncertainly surrounding the PCR tests I came two days earlier.  I typically go at least 1 day early if I were joining a foreign tour.  This gives me time to get ready and familiarize myself locally.  I requested the hotel to put me in the same room for the 3 nights.  Not only they did that but they upgraded my room to an elite room because of my Marriott Bonvoy Gold Membership, courtesy of my American Express card.  They gave me a big beautiful room with a wonderful view of the city.

After a shower I took a fairly long nap.  I hadn't had a proper sleep for more than 24 hours and I was feeling it.  After my nap I took a walk to the Costanera Center Mall.  This Mall boasts the Gran Torre, the tallest skyscraper in Latin America.  I walked around looking for something to eat and found a Peruvian restaurant that features seafood.  It was about a 20 minute walk back to the hotel.  After two long days of traveling I was dead tired!

Peruvian Restaurant

Fried Octopus with Pineapple and Corn

Antarctica - The Bucket List Trip

Antarctica sounds like a distant location and distant opportunity for travel.  I receive a lot of travel emails and lately, there have been many about travel to Antarctica.  Some are basic.  You start from Ushuaia, Argentina, which is the southern-most port in South America, and board a ship that takes you through the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula.  This journey takes about 2 days one-way.  The trip is usually for 8 to 11 days.  Prices range from $8,000 to $15,000.

However, there are a few upscale cruise companies that are now offering luxury cruises to Antarctica.  Obviously, there have been a lot of interest and demand.  Most of these cruises last longer than 10 days and include other itineraries.  If you can afford it this might be a good way to cross Antarctica off your bucket list.  Here are six companies that offer luxury cruises to Antarctica.

Two companies that I have been eyeing for awhile are National Geographic/Lindblad and Hurtigruten.  National Geographic bought Lindblad a few years ago and have been heavily promoting their so-called expedition cruises around the world.  Hurtigruten is a Norwegian company that has been sailing the Norwegian waters for over 100 years.  A few years ago they decided to expand their itineraries to most popular cruise areas:  Galapagos, Alaska, South America, Iceland and Greenland, Europe, etc.  I traveled with Hurtigruten on one of my most memorable trips in September 2016:  cruising along the coast of Norway.  The service and food impressed me.

When I saw a deal to waive the single supplement for an Antarctica and Falkland Island cruise I immediately decided to check into it.  This deal saves me at least $5,000 to $6,000 because that's what travel company usually charges extra for those traveling solo.  Instead of paying about $20,000 I am paying about $13,000.  Still, adding in the airfare, travel insurance, and hotel, we are looking at at least $15,000 to $16,000.  In late 2021 and early 2022 the world was still in the throes of the COVID pandemic.  The Delta variant was waning but a new Omicron variant started to infect more people.  All people could think of was doomsday, not travel.  Travel companies were dangling deals.  

Thinking, and hoping, that the pandemic will start to slow down in a couple of months, I took a risk and booked the cruise in late December 2021.  It turned out to be a good bet.  At the time of writing this post, on January 22, 2022, and a few days before leaving for Santiago, Chile, then Punta Arenas, to embark on the MS Roald Amundsen, many countries are starting to loosen travel restrictions.  The Omicron variant has proven to be contagious but caused mild symptoms among those who are fully vaccinated, either with 2 or 3 vaccine shots.

Here is complete information about the cruise, from the Hurtigruten website:

Antarctica, Chilean Fjords and Falklands – Great Explorers and Wildlife (18 days) 2021/22

Map of Itinerary

MS Roald Amundsen

 

Aune Restaurant

Small Expedition Boats

In a few days I will be boarding my flight from Phoenix to Santiago, Chile.  But before I can do that I have to cross several hurdles.  I have to:

1. be certified by my doctor that I am medically fit to travel on this trip.
2. send records of my 3 vaccination shots to the Chilean authorities to get a Mobility Pass.
3. take a PCR test before I board my flight.
4. take another PCR test when I arrive at Santiago airport
5. take another antigen test before I can board the ship.

I will stay in Santiago for a couple of days before Hurtigruten flies a charter flight to take its passengers to Punta Arenas where the cruise will begin.

This is the first time in all my travels that I have to jump through so many hoops to go on a trip.  These are unusual times.  Hopefully, the world will figure out how to tackle this COVID-19 virus.  I will keep updating this blog as my journey continues.

Hawaii - Part 3: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

 Hawaii's origin and life are closely intertwined with volcanoes.  Without volcanoes that would have been no Big Island.  Pele, the mythical God of fire, lightning, dance, volcanoes and violence, rules over the active volcanoes.  The Big Island is made up of seven volcanoes, two of which are underwater.  The five that are visible are Kohala, Hualalai, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Kilauea, from oldest to youngest.  Eruptions over the years have created layers and layers of rock and eventually created a gently sloped shield volcanoe, as Mauna Loa has shown.

The five volcanoes are not technically dead.  They are dormant.  Mauna Loa, the largest of all volcanoes, last erupted in 1984.  Kilauea started erupting in 1983 and continue until 2018.  I remember watch the news, seeing lava flowing into the ocean and changing the physical nature of the island.  

At the beginning there was nothing on the island.  Slowly, the landscape changed by the 3 Ws':  Wind, Wave, and Wings.  As you travel around the island you notice that the soil is all lava rocks.  It's an interesting landscape and over time, seeds blown by the winds and carried by birds (wings) started a lush tropical landscape.  Not the whole island is tropical.  In fact it's said that the Big Island has 11 different climatic zones.

However, the rich lava soil, gently sloping mountain soil plus lots of rain produce what the Big Island of Hawaii is best known for - Kona Coffee.  The farms are located in what is known as the Kona Coffee Belt,  in the southwestern part of the island.  You can read more about Kona Coffee in the link above and why it is so important to Hawaii.

Coffee Trees with Harvested Coffee in Bag

Coffee Beans.  Bright red ones are ready to be picked

The two sites that are best known for its volcanoes are the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (HVNP) and Mauna Kea.  HVNP is about a 2-hour drive along Highway 11 from Black Rock Farm, where we are staying, in Captain Cook.  There are many interesting places to stop and visit along this drive.  One is the Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park.  We stumbled on this Historical Park by accident, as we were exploring the area below where we were staying.  My friend Gary had told me about this place but it did not dawn on me that it was only 30 minutes away.  This site is where native Hawaiians in the old days seek refuge when they break sacred laws, known as kapu, and ask for forgiveness.  It's a very small historical site but bears significance in Hawaiian history.  About 5 minute walk from this site is a popular snorkeling beach called Two Steps.

Sculptures at the Park

Entrance to the Park

About an hour away is the southern-most point in the United States.  It's about a 30-minute detour from Highway 11.  Many come here to take pictures of a sign that tells them they are at the southern-most point of the US.  We did not find the sign.  We say many people jumping off a cliff-side into the ocean.  Another popular attraction nearby is the unique Green Sand Beach.  It's about a 2-3 mile hike from South Point or you can catch a fee-paying shuttle to the beach.

Young Men Waiting to Jump Off the Cliff at South Point

A few miles from where the side road rejoins Highway 11 we came to the town of Na'alehu.  We stopped because we needed a break from the drive.  We saw a couple of vehicles selling fruits along the side of the road.  We approached the lady selling mangoes and bought five mangoes from her for $4.  She told us about another farmer off to a side street selling Hawaiian papayas for four for a $1.  That is an incredible bargain because they normally sell for $1.79 a pound even in a grocery store in Hawaii!  However, we couldn't find the house but saw a building that attracted our attention:  The Punalu'u Bake Shop.  This bakery is well known for its malasadas, a type of Portuguese Fried Dough, similar to a donut.  These were brought over by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawaii to work in the plantations in the 19th century.  

Famous for its Malasadas

Malasadas

Later we found the house that had the papayas outside selling for 4 for $1.  We were also invited by Cathy and her husband Mike, to their house to pick lychees.  We followed them to their farm a few miles away and Mike picked lychees from his trees.  What a treat!  In my whole life of eating lychees I have never picked them fresh from the tree.

Four Hawaiian papayas for $1!

Lychees on a tree

As we drive northeast towards HVNP we passed another well-known place called the Punalu'u Black Sand Beach.  Because the island was formed by volcanoes, after years and years of pounding by the sea, the black lava rocks became sand.  It's one of the few black sand beaches on the island.

Punalu'u Black Sand Beach

The entrance to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is not too far from Highway 11.  The first recommended place to stop is the Visitors Center where you may hear a Ranger giving suggestions on where to get the best views and what interesting things are there to see.  There is a Volcano Village where you can stay inside the park.  There is not much to do inside the park unless you plan to hike.  But it's a worthwhile experience to see the crater and the steam vents.  There are many view points where you can see different parts of the crater.

We were directed to several steam vents along the drive around the rim of the crater.  The steam do not have any sulphuric or rotten egg smell like in other volcanic places like New Zealand and Iceland that I've been to.  If this is your first time it's an amazing sight to see steam rising from the ground.  On some trails you can get close to the rim of the crater.  After the eruption that ended in 2018 some parts of the park are closed.   You can't see very well from the top of the crater but you get an idea of the immensity of the volcano.

Steam coming out of the ground

View of the Crater

Hawaii - Part 2: Poke and Costco

Poke (pronounced Poh-Keh) is a native Hawaiian dish that is made from diced raw fish, usually Ahi Tuna, and marinaded in different sauces like soy sauce, sesame oil, chopped green onions, minced garlic and whatever condiment you want to add to it.  It is served as a side or main dish in the Hawaiian islands.  It's popularity has grown over the last few years that you can find restaurants serving poke in the mainland US and other cities in the world known for their culinary diversity.

Poke is so common in Hawaii that it is sold in almost all grocery stores in the deli section.  It is as common as potato salad or cole slaw or pasta salad.  They come in as many flavors as the store can come up with. Common flavors are shoyu (soy-sauce), spicy garlic, sesame oil, chili pepper, etc.  

Poke in Deli Section at KTA Express, a local grocery store in Hawaii

Poke at the Safeway Store

More Poke at Safeway's

One of the most popular poke restaurants on the Big Island is Da Poke Shack.  It has an extensive menu (click on link to see pictures) of poke dishes.  It is located, not in the main town area where all the other popular restaurants are, but in a touristy beachside condominium.  When we arrived during lunch-time there was a long line waiting outside the restaurant.  Because of COVID-19 restrictions only 5 customers are allowed inside the restaurant at a time to order take-out only.  There are a couple of picnic benches where you can eat your poke or take it somewhere where it's comfortable.  We waited for about 40 minutes before we entered to order.  You have a choice of a bowl or a plate.  The difference between the two being the number of poke selections and side dishes that you get.  The prices are not cheap.  We ordered a bowl and a plate and the price came up to almost $70.

A Poke Bowl with side dish of seaweed and rice

A Poke Plate - 4 types of poke, 2 side dishes and 2 rice

The restaurant is part of a beachside condominium

What does Costco have to do with Poke?  Nothing.  It just happened that this is our first full day on the Big Island and we want to go to Costco after lunch.  I am a big fan of Costco and I want to try to go to a Costco warehouse when I am in a different city because they always offer something local and different.  This is the only Costco on the Big Island and it's on the Kona side.  One thing I noticed right away is that the price of a hot dog and soda is $1.50, just like anywhere else.  Rotisserie chicken is also $4.99, an incredible bargain considering how expensive things are in Hawaii.

They also have locally grown pineapple, mangoes, bananas, purple sweet potato, etc.  I wish they have Hawaiian pineapples, bananas, and mangoes in Arizona.  They taste much fresher and better than the ones imported from Central America and Mexico.   There are other local delicacies as well:  shrimp chips, tuna jerky, frozen Chinese char-siu bao (buns), guava and mango cheesecake and many others.

Hawaiian Apple Bananas

Mango Cheesecake

Guava Cheesecake

On a second visit a few days later we did find poke at Costco.  They seem to price a little higher than Safeway's but perhaps they are better quality.  I don't think you will find poke in other Costco stores on the mainland.

Poke at Costco

Not surprisingly, our cart when we checked out was quite full.  Ahh....the joy of shopping at Costco

You are always at risk of buying too much at Costco

Poke are so popular that they make them daily

Poi - a traditional Hawaiian food

Lau Lau - also a traditional Hawaiian food

Hawaii - Part 1: A Bumpy Road to Heaven

I've been travel-starved since my last trip to Singapore and Sri Lanka in early 2020.  Except for a few trips to New York City to see my kids and grandkids and a 3-week camping trip to Colorado and Utah,  I've been home-bound in Arizona most of the memorable pandemic years of 2020 and 2021.  Earlier in 2021 anticipating that the infection rate would ease up I started to think of some of the safest places I could go without taking too much of a risk.  

Hawaii seems like a good choice although at that time there were very strict COVID-19 guidelines before you are allowed to visit one of the islands.  I've been to Oahu and Maui but not to Kauai and the Big Island of Hawaii.  When I saw my friend Gary posting some beautiful pictures of the Big Island, that made my decision.  I want to go some place where it's not crowded and yet has interesting places to discover.

Gary owns a coffee farm on the Big Island.  I asked for recommendation for an inexpensive hotel.  He suggested the Manago Hotel.  It's a no-frills simple hotel that has been around for over 100 years.  You can get a room for about $500 a week!  Compared that to all the fancy hotels with bells and whistles that may charge you up to $500 a night!  In May when Southwest Airlines announced that they are starting service to the Big Island, all the other airlines match its prices.  I was able to purchase a round-trip ticket with Delta Airlines for about $300 or 30,000 Delta SkyMiles.  Then I reserved a medium-size car through Costco Travel but it costs $1,000 a week!  Apparently, in 2020 during the pandemic, all the rental car companies sold their inventories and cancel their new car orders.  This created a big shortage of rental cars and the prices shot right up.

Then in June Gary made me two offers that are hard to refuse.  He offered to rent me his late wife's Jeep for a very nominal amount.  A few weeks later he told me he wasn't going to be back in Hawaii when I am there.  So he offered to let me stay at his house, again for a very nominal amount.  His house is on his coffee farm overlooking the ocean.

We were picked up at night by Gary's step-daughter Scarlett and driven to his house.  It was dark and we couldn't see where we were going but it was mostly a bumpy unpaved road.  You need a 4-wheel drive to get up there.  

In the morning when we went outside it was one of the most beautiful views you can ask for.  Right below us, on the left and right are rows and rows of coffee trees.  Over the horizon is the Pacific Ocean.  This is going to be a tough two weeks - staring down at a very tropical green hillside, with mango, papaya, avocado, breadfruit and coffee trees, and a deep blue ocean beyond.  A heavenly site indeed!

The unpaved road up to the house

Rows and rows of coffee trees

Coffe Beans.  Only the dark red ones are to be picked.

A panoramic view from the lanai (patio) of the house

Coffee trees everywhere.  In the middle are some banana trees

It's green everywhere!

Sunset photo by Gary from his lanai