Wednesday, June 18, 2014

The Silk Road

I am back in Phoenix, after a long trip from Hong Kong to Tokyo to San Francisco and finally, to Phoenix.  I have trouble sleeping on planes so this makes it extra longer.  On top of that, the service on United Airlines is way below other international airlines.  I can go on and on but suffice to say that I flew United only because I was able to get a good price on a round-trip ticket to Hong Kong.

I joined a group of my niece's friends in Chongqing (CQ) on the trip to the Silk Road.  The Silk Road was made famous by Marco Polo, who made the journey in the 13th century.  Contrary to what Western history book said, Marco Polo did not "discover" China.  He was not even the first European to reach China.  However, he did document his travels in a book called "The Travels of Marco Polo," which brought him great fame.

Long before the Europeans set out in ships to find a route to the East, there was a flourishing trade route on land between Europe and Asia.  Chinese silk was highly desirable in Europe so a lot of the trade was in silk, hence the name the Silk Road or Silk Route.  There are actually many Silk Roads, but according to our tour guide, there are 3 main ones:  north, central and south.  The total length is about 4,000 miles.  We travelled only a short portion of it, all in Gansu province, from Lanzhou to Dunhuang.  The westernmost part of the Silk Road in China is in Xinjiang province.  We did not go there because there have been some violence and racial unrest in the area.  You can read more about the Silk Road in this Wikipedia article:  The Silk Road

Members of the tour group

A 52-seater bus for 15 people, very comfortable

We took a 1 1/2 hour flight from CQ to Lanzhou.  This was a holiday weekend to celebrate the Duanwu Festival or popularly, the Dragon Boat Festival.  Chinese dumplings or zongzi are eaten during this festival.  You can read more about this festival:  Zongzi Festival
We only stopped briefly in Lanzhou but two things are obvious when we drove into town.  One, we were in a desert area and two, there are more muslim Chinese here.  This was a 5-day/4-night trip, with stop in towns like Wuwei, Jiayuguan, and finally, Dunhuang.  We stopped at historic sites, temples and even a portion of the Great Wall.  
Dunhuang is noteworthy because it was a popular hub along the Silk Road.  During its heyday, it could be compared to London or New York today.  The famous historic site here is the Mogao Grottoes, where many Buddhist paintings and statues are found in almost 800 caves.  Only guided tours of a small number caves are allowed.  Because of the age and the artistic value of these historic sites, the government is planning to limit the time and number of visitors to the caves.  For more on the Mogao Grottoes, click on this link:  Mogao Grottoes

Chinese Dumplings or Zongzi

Monument in Wuwei

A historic temple on the route

This looks like Arizona but it's not

Garrison at Jiuyuguan

Western part of the Great Wall

A Camel Caravan in Dunhuang

Mogao Grottoes

Entry Point to China in the old days

Camel Jockey

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Jiuzhaigou 九寨溝

Jiuzhaigou (JZG, pronounced "Chiu Chai Go") is one of the most popular tourist attractions in China but not many people outside of China have heard about it.  The name literally means Nine Village Valley but today only 7 villages are inhabited, mostly by Tibetan minorities.  Not much was known about this area until 1974.  Today, it's a popular tourist destination with hotels and all the usual tourist traps here.
JZG is in the northern part of Sichuan province.  I took a 1-hour flight from Chengdu.  Many on the flight were surprised by the cold when they got off the plane.  It's at about 3,000m (about 10,000 ft) elevation.  I joined a local tour so everyone in the group is from different parts of China.  It was a no-frills tour - cheap hotels and simple meals.
We arrived in JZG in the afternoon and only had about 4 hours to see JZG.  That's a pity because you need at least a full day to appreciate its beauty.  We saw a local variety show in the evening.  The next day we visited a Tibetan family, some local shops.  In the afternoon, we went up to Huanglong (Yellow Dragon) Mountain, another top tourist attraction in China.
I am not doing justice to JZG with my pictures.  If you just google "jiuzhaigou pictures" you will see some of the beautiful pictures that others have taken.  The best time to visit JZG is in the fall, when there is a lot of water and the leaves are just changing color.
I am glad I took this opportunity to go to JZG.  It was not originally in my travel plans but since I was so close, I might as well go.  Only regret is that I did not spend more time admiring the beauty of the place.

Rugged mountains in the area

Beautiful waterfalls

Clear Lakes everywhere


A Tibetan variety show

Selling Noodles at the Tibetan Village

A Tibetan Boy

Color pools of water

Temple in Huanglong

There are hundreds of colorful ponds

A mini-waterfall


Thursday, June 12, 2014

Panda-monium!

This is one place that I've been looking forward to on this trip - a visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding.  As most of us know, pandas are an endangered species.  Their natural habitat is actually in southern Sichuan, near the Yunnan border.  This center was set up so that they can understand pandas' breeding cycle and increase the number of surviving pandas.  Some of the pandas bred here are released into the wild.  All the pandas in zoos worldwide are on loan from this center.

Chengdu Research Base for Giant Panda Breeding
I am not big panda fan but you can't help appreciating their cuteness.  The only other time I have seen a live panda was at the Beijing Zoo.  This time I was expecting to see more and boy, was I in for a treat.


Rules for visiting the center
At the beginning of the tour, our tour guide, who was also the manager for the hostel where I was staying, asked us if we were interested in holding and taking a picture with a panda.  He said it'd require a donation (sizable by Chinese standard).  I thought about it while walking around and finally decided that this is a lifetime opportunity that I shouldn't miss.  Below is a picture of me sitting next to a 10-month old baby (girl) panda.  This was probably the highlight of my trip!

Panda and I

I sat next to the panda for a little over a minute and during the whole time. she was only interested in chewing her bamboo.  I touched her head, nose and paws but she didn't even bother at all.
 

 Bamboo Buffet Feast 

Total Concentration

Napping on a tree


 A full-grown panda

Red pandas, which are also endangered

Incubator with (fake) baby panda.
Aug and Sep is birthing season
The Center gave us each a framed photograph plus other souvenirs. It was professionally done and they made you feel that your donation to panda research was very much appreciated. 

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Chengdu

Chengdu is another big city in Sichuan province.  The government has been trying to encourage more industries away from the already highly-developed east coast and Sichuan is one of those provinces that has seen tremendous growth the last 20 years.  Many multi-national corporations have factories here, including Intel.  Some of you may be familiar with Chengdu because of a big earthquake here in 2008.  However, most of you may have heard of Chengdu because all the Giant Pandas in zoos worldwide came from the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding.  My visit to this center was probably the highlight of my trip.  I will write a separate post on Pandas in the next post.

I took a 2-hour fast train from Chongqing to Chengdu.  The fare was 98 RMB , about US$16.  This is not a bullet train but fast anyway, reaching speed of about 200 km/h or almost 125 mph.  China has been feverishly building its transportation infrastructure to modern standards.  The trains and train stations are very impressive.  While the US has ben debating on the merits of high-speed rail, China has leaped ahead of most countries, including Europe and Japan, in building high-speed rail.  This is similar to the US building the Interstate freeway system that gave a big boost to the US economy.

The trains are clean, spacious and comfortable, although quite crowded.  I wish there is such a train that I can take to go from Phoenix to Tucson, Los Angeles or Las Vegas.  It is such a nice experience not having to go through the tight security at the airports, weather delay and having a lot of leg room.
While Chongqing (CQ) is built against the mountains, Chengdu is located in a flat area.  You get the feeling that Chengdu is more spread out, not closed in by skyscrapers.

One of the popular tourist attractions is the Wu Hou Temple, where much of Chinese history of the Three Kingdoms is found here. Next to this temple is Jin Li Street, that sells many local arts and crafts and delicacies.  You also find many restaurants and tea houses where you can just sit and watch people go by.  The locals are fond of sitting and relaxing at teahouses.  Unfortunately, they put a Starbucks here.

Entrance to one of the small temples at Wu Hou Temple 
Souvenir Stand at Jin Li Ancient Street
Starbucks:  Ugly Americanism
I also visited the Sichuan Museum, which gives me a good glimpse of Sichuan and Chinese history.  Most Americans associate Sichuan with spicy Chinese food.  What I was told is that in the early days, Sichuan was a very poor province and the people had to work very hard manual labor to survive.  They could only afford and so ate a lot of innards of animals, like intestines, kidneys, tripes, etc, so they have to add a lot of chili peppers to make the food tastier and edible.  Indeed almost everything you eat at the restaurant has a spiciness to it.  You have to tell them when you order that you don't want your food to be spicy otherwise, the norm is almost too spicy for non-locals.

Bronze Artifact displayed at Sichuan Museum 
Mask used for Sichuan Opera 
Ming Vase
Local Delicacies:  Intestines, kidneys, etc
I stayed at the Hello Chengdu hostel.  Hostels are not very popular in China because some of the local hotels are quite cheap and not many backpackers come here because of difficulties in communicating with the locals.  This hostels is very well run and they have a very good travel desk.  All the staff speak some English so this is a great place for someone who is trying to learn some Chinese.

Popular Local Dish:  Dan Dan Noodles

 More Places to Spend Money

Monday, June 2, 2014

Chongqing

Chongqing (used to be called Chunking) is the gateway to western-central China and a major port on the Yangtze River.  It is a big metropolis of about 30 million people.  Twenty years ago it was just an average size city but because of the push by the Chinese government and its former mayor, who is now in prison for corruption, it grew tremendously.  Skyscrapers are everywhere and the roads are clogged with cars.  Within the Central Business District, almost every luxury-brand retailer is represented here.  It's a testament to the success of the Chinese economy.  However, you see many poor people around:  street vendors selling fruits, food, souvenirs, etc.  The salaries are very low; a recent university graduate gets paid less than US$1,000 a month.
I am here because this is the end point of my Yangtze Cruise and one of my nieces works here for a private development company.  It's also where I go with her friends to the Silk Road and Xian.
There is very little of interest here.  It's mostly a commercial center for the region.

Entrance to Ciqikou Street - popular tourist street

Making Noodles

Making peanut candy 
Self-service Fortune Telling

Multi-tasking:  Baby-sitting and playing cards

Smelly To-fu - this really stinks but some people love it

Worshipping at a local temple

An Abandoned Old Village

Sichuan Opera

A Pi-pa Musician