Coming Home to Grand Forks

 I first came to Grand Forks in early January 1974.  Imagine me living in tropical Singapore all my life, never own a jack because it never gets below 70F in Singapore, then landing in Grand Forks right smack in the middle of winter.  I get asked this question a lot:  "Why North Dakota(ND)?"  I came here to attend the University of North Dakota (UND) because I met a mutual friend in Singapore who studied here.  My big criterion is whether I can support myself through four years of college because my family is too poor to pay anything for me.  The answer from my friend is that yes, you can work on campus and support yourself.  

With about US$1,000 in my pocket I just had enough for the first semester of school.  I remember out-of-state tuition was about $562 so the rest went to room and board in the dormitory.  A few days after I arrived I asked people I met where I can find a job.  By US Immigration Rule I was only allowed to work on-campus.  I was told to call a Paul Clark, who ran Plant Services for the university.  I called Paul and he told me to meet him at the Winter Sports Arena at 10pm on a Friday night.  He told me we would be cleaning up after a hockey game.  The pay?  $1.80 an hour.

Over the next 3 1/2 years I'd work several low-level jobs:  dishwasher, custodian, janitor, waiter, etc.  The official minimum wage was $2.30 an hour but since they are university jobs, they were allowed to pay $1.60 an hour.  In the summer I worked full-time to save enough money for the coming school year.  I scraped with barely enough to spare.  There was no life-line for me.  Either I swim or I sink.  

My focus, though, is getting a degree.  Specifically, a degree in Mechanical Engineering.  This is why I am in Grand Forks in September 2022, for the 45th Reunion of the Mechanical Engineering Class of 1977.  Most of my classmates were from small farm towns in ND.  Most have never met or met very few foreigners in the 70s'.  I was truly a foreigner.  I look different.  I speak different.  I act different.  They didn't know how to treat me or talk to me.

It's a different world today.  Some have had jobs that took them around the world.  Many had interactions with others from different backgrounds.  Mostly, all of us had matured and have a different outlook.  This time around they felt more comfortable talking to me.  We had many opportunities to mingle and catch up on our lives.  There are only 13 out of about 20 who graduated, attended the reunion.  

First, we had an Open House with the Mechanical Engineering students.  It is nice to see so many interested in studying engineering.  They have many questions about what it's like out there in the workforce.  How to be successful.  We toured the Engineering Labs.  We also toured the remodeled Memorial Union, a center for student activities.

Tour of the ME Shop

The newly remodeled Memorial Union

On the second day we toured the School of Aerospace Sciences.  This program offers majors like Air Traffic Management, Aviation Sciences, Commercial Aviation, Unmanned Aircraft Systems Operations, etc.  It is a nationally known program and attracts students from all over the world.

A Drone Instructor

Drone Workshop

Finally, we had a tour of the Ralph Engelstad Arena, the University's hockey arena.  It is named after Ralph Engelstad, who played briefly for UND and went on to make his fortune in the casino business in Las Vegas.  UND's team, formerly known as the Fighting Sioux, now the Fighting Hawks, won 8 NCAA Division 1 Hockey Championships.

Ralph Engelstad Arena

I will be remiss if I don't mention UND's best known athlete - Phil Jackson, best known for coaching the Michael Jordan-led Chicago Bulls and the Shaq and Kobe Bryant Lakers.  He won a total of 11 NBA Championships.

However, the highlight of the trip has to be a visit to a farm.  In my almost 4 years in Grand Forks I've never visited a working farm.  A classmate learned that we were interested in learning about farming in ND.  So he took us to visit a sugar beet farm.  Many Americans are not aware that almost half of the sugar produced in this country come from sugar beets.  Most think that sugar comes only from sugar cane.  

Kevin, our farmer, runs a 500-acre farm, growing sugar beets, soy beans and other crops.  When we visited him the sugar beets were almost ready for harvest.  He showed us his farm equipment, how they work, and dug up a sugar beet to show us what they look like.

What a sugar beet looks like

Farm Tractor

The Harvester

Look at the size of the tractors

Farmland in the middle of North Dakota

The farm is highly mechanized.  They have GPS to guide where they go.  Even with such a big farm, there are only 2 people running it full-time.  During harvest season they hire migrant workers to help with the harvest.  They harvest around the clock and is finished in about a week.  

After harvest they take the sugar beets to a nearby factory where they are process into sugar crystals.  The factor is a cooperative, meaning all the farmers share in its operations.  The farmers are paid based on how much they harvested.  

Here is a YouTube video showing the harvesting and processing of sugar beets into sugar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksN7h-ZpFWc

Road Trip to North Dakota

I started my travels this summer on July 4, flying to Quito, Ecuador, for the Galapagos cruise with Hurtigruten.  On the way back to the US I stopped in Bogota and Cartagena in Colombia.  On the way back from Bogota to JFK in New York City, I caught COVID.  That cancelled my planned travel to the Canadian Maritimes with Caravan Tour.  Instead of just hanging out in NYC until our family vacation in Maine in late August, I asked my girlfriend, Doris, to come to NYC in mid-August.

We decided to take a Flix Bus to Boston, stayed for 4 nights, then rented a car to drive to Montreal, then drive to Portland, Maine, to meet the rest of the family.  It was Doris' first trip to the Northeast.  We enjoyed walking around Boston and Montreal and ate a lot of lobsters in Maine.  We walked the Freedom Trail in Boston and enjoyed the Jean Talon Farmers' Market in Montreal.

We came back to Phoenix on September 4, stayed 2 days, and was ready for a road trip to North Dakota (ND).  Why go to ND?  I am attending a 45-year reunion of the Mechanical Engineering Class of 1977 at the University of North Dakota (UND).  Instead of flying to Grand Forks, ND, Doris wanted to take a road trip.  I thought that was a good idea and planned on a month-long trip.  After ND we could go through the mid-west and take a big circle back to Phoenix.  

Our first stop was at my condominium in Flagstaff, AZ.  We haven't been there for a while so we want to bring a few things up there and spend the night.  The next morning we headed for Santa Fe, New Mexico.    It's about a five-hour drive, first going east on I40 towards Albuquerque, then to Santa Fe.

The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

Palace of the Governors, where Native Americans would sell their crafts

After spending 1 night at the Best Western in Santa Fe, we headed north towards Denver.  According to the map it's a 6-hour drive.  However, we were told about the very busy rush-hour traffic around Denver.  Fortunately, the GPS took us around Denver, on a toll-road towards the airport.  We spent the night at a DoubleTree Inn in Thornwood, just north of Denver.  

Our next destination is Mount Rushmore.  Driving north of Denver we passed through the State of Wyoming.  Most people associate Wyoming with Yellowstone National Park but the eastern part of Wyoming is mostly farmland.  It's beautiful rolling pasture.  Wyoming is the least populated state in the Union and you can see why.  We saw very few cars and when we stopped at a small town for lunch, there was hardly anyone at all.

A small town in Wyoming

We crossed into South Dakota and soon we approached Mount Rushmore National Memorial.  There is a lot of hype about the place but once you get here, there's not much to see.  The highlight is just the heads of the four presidents.  We then drove about 30 minutes to Rapid City where we were planning to stay a couple of nights for a well-deserved rest.

L-R: Presidents Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln

It was an ambitious plan.  After 2 days of driving, we started to get tired of the driving.  Driving about 6 hours a day gets tiring after a while, even if the scenery is beautiful.  Rapid City gave us a chance to recharge ourselves.  We took a leisure drive to the Badlands National Park the next day. We also stopped to checked out Wall Drug Store, a popular tourist trap.

Badlands in South Dakota

Not a Drug Store.  All kinds of Souvenirs and Trinkets are sold here

Leaving South Dakota we took a slight detour to visit Devils Tower Monument in northeastern Wyoming.  It was featured in the movie "Close Encounter of the Third Kind."

After Devils Tower we drove north through beautiful farmlands of eastern Montana and then meeting I94 at a small town called Wibaux.  A quick rest stop and we head towards Medora, ND.  This area is made famous by President Theodore Roosevelt, where a National Park is named after him.  He spent his younger years ranching here before he became president.  He came to have an appreciation for nature and wildlife and when he became president, he started the National Parks System.  As it was getting dark we did not drive into the park.  We did, however, went into the park on the way home from Grand Forks.  Instead we had dinner at a  popular local restaurant.

It was almost 9pm when we drove into Bismarck.  A quick night's rest and the next morning we started heading towards Grand Forks.  I94 cuts through almost the middle of North Dakota.  It was a beautiful drive through rolling farmlands.  At one point along the highway we stopped to talk to someone we thought is a farmer.  Indeed he is a farmer but he was working part-time for the Department of Transportation mowing grass on the side of the highway.  We asked him what they grow here.  He said soy beans, sun flower, wheat, etc.  

We thought the GPS would take us to Fargo, then head north on I29 to Grand Forks.  Instead it took us on some two-lane farm roads.  We stopped a few times to see what they grow because we couldn't see from the car.  They were mostly soybeans and sun flowers.

Soy Beans

Sunflowers.  Hands are to show how big they are

It was an interesting experience driving through the breadbasket of America.  This is where America's most productive lands are.  It's acres after acres of farmlands.  Later we'd have an opportunity to visit one of the farms, courtesy of one of my classmates.

We finally drove into Grand Forks, a very different place then when I was studying here 45 years ago.  I could not recognize the town at all.  There are several new shopping centers and the university itself has transformed.  We checked into the Best Western Hotel, which happened to be next to a Japanese restaurant called Sakura.  Almost fifty years ago when I came to Grand Forks, you could not even buy tofu or bean sprouts in town. 

Walking Across the George Washington Bridge

 After meeting with my friend Joe at the Palisades, I was to walk across the George Washington Bridge (GWB) from New Jersey to Manhattan.  I know that the GWB is about a mile long so it won't be too long a walk.  The challenge is finding the exact location where I can get on the GWB Pedestrian and Cyclist sidewalk in Fort Lee, NJ.  Here is the official directions from the Port Authority of NY and NJ on where to cross the bridge:   GWB Pedestrian & Bicycle Information

However, reading something and actually know where to go are two different things.  Below is the map of the NJ side of GWB.

Shown in red letters, near the letter A is the approximate location where the pedestrian and cyclist sidewalk starts on the bridge.  It's difficult to find but once you are there you can tell right away that it is a sidewalk leading to the bridge.  Below is a picture of what it looks like:

Entrance to Pedestrian Sidewalk on the NJ side

After asking a couple of people in the Fort Lee Historic Park we took a chance and turn right after exiting the park.  That is Hudson Terrace.  About a block after exiting, Joe saw the sidewalk.  I got out of the car and as I was approaching the sidewalk I saw another pedestrian approaching from the other direction.  I asked him if this is the pedestrian sidewalk on the GWB bridge.  He said yes.  So, here I am walking on the south side of the bridge.

I met many pedestrians and a few cyclists coming from the NY side.  Being a week day it was not very crowded.  Some were joggers, a few construction workers, and some cyclists.  The view south of the Hudson River and Manhattan was amazing.  Below are some pictures of my walk.

About 50m from the start

Still on the NJ side

Looking south at the Hudson River on the NJ side

Getting to the middle of the Bridge

Looking south at the Hudson River

Protected from vehicle traffic by metal barrier

Getting near to NY side

Help for suicidal pedestrians

Hudson River from Manhattan side

Starting the descent to the ramp

Ramp on the NY side

Overhead view of entrance on NY side

Gate into the ramp going up to the Bridge on NY side

If you don't stop it should take about 15-20 minutes to cross the bridge.  However, I spent time taking photos and admiring the view.  While you are walking, heavy traffic is going through the middle part of the bridge.  There is a metal barrier protecting pedestrians and cyclists.  It is almost impossible to be hit by a vehicle because the barrier is about 3 ft high.  At the NY end you see a ramp curving down.  Then you come to a lockable gate and you are now at street level.

Sign pointing to the bridge on NY side

Rules for using the bridge

Street Level

First street after coming down to street level

Cabrini Blvd is the first street

GWB Mall, where the buses and subway stops

The first street you encounter after coming down to the NY side is Cabrini Blvd.  Three blocks away is Broadway Avenue, where the GWB Market is located.  Here is where you take the bus and subway back to other parts of Manhattan.  Below is the map showing the area around the NY end of the GWB:

Interestingly, there is a lighthouse at the bottom of the GWB on the NY side.  It's called the Little Red Lighthouse.  Here are some pictures that I took in October 2018.

Taking the Ferry from Manhattan to New Jersey

 Although New York and New Jersey are separated by about a mile-wide Hudson River, there are challenges crossing from one side to the other.  In the old days the only way to cross was by boat.  Tunnels and bridges were built in the early 1900s' so cars and trains can travel between the two states.  As real estate gets more expensive in New York, many choose to commute from New Jersey.  One of the most popular way is via trains run by the NJ Transit.  Of course, you can drive but you will find yourself in gridlock when driving into Manhattan.

Another less common method is the ferry.  This is run by a private company called NY Waterway.  

One fine August day I was to meet my friend Joe, who lives in NJ.  I can easily take the subway to Penn Station and take a NJ Transit train across the river and have Joe pick me up at one of the stations.  Instead I chose to cross the Hudson River via the NY Waterway ferry.  This is a new experience for me.

The most convenient place for me to catch the ferry is at Pier 79 at 39th St and 12th Avenue, called the Midtown Terminal.  This is a commuter ferry so it runs only in the morning and in the late afternoon.  The last ferry in the morning at the Midtown Terminal is at 9:30am.  Joe figured out that the easiest place for him to pick me up is at the Edgewater Terminal on the NJ side.  We were to drive to the Palisades State Park, a few miles north.  The fare is $11.25 for a one-way ticket.  There is a senior ticket for $10.50

I arrived at the Midtown terminal at about 9:00am.  The ticket window was closed.  It doesn't open till noon.  It's the only place where I can buy a senior ticket.  My other choice is to buy through the NY Waterway App on my phone or one of the machines in the ferry terminal lobby.  I decided to buy a regular ticket from one of the machines.  I asked around and found out that my ferry would be arriving at dock number 2.

At about 9:25am the ferry pulled into the terminal.  About 20 passengers disembarked.  Only 2 passengers, including me, embarked for the short ride across the Hudson River.  It traveled in a northwesterly direction to Edgewater.  It took about 30 minutes to cross.

NY-NJ Ferry Routes

A View of Midtown Manhattan

A Ferry coming in from NJ

Outside the Terminal

Another Ferry Approaching

Ferries Waiting for Passengers

View of Ferry with Midtown in the Background

Leaving the Terminal

Another Ferry Leaving the Terminal

A Distant View of Midtown

George Washington Bridge in the Distance

Approaching Edgewater Terminal

It was a short but beautiful experience on a cool morning.  Water always give people a calming effect.  

As a historical note, this part of the Hudson River is where the "Miracle on the Hudson" occurred on January 15, 2009.  An American Airlines flight, captained by Chesley 'Sully' Sullenberger hit a flock of birds and had to ditch the plane on the Hudson River, near the Midtown NY Waterway Ferry Terminal.  Two NY Waterway ferries were the first to reach the plane and rescued the passengers.  All 155 people on board the plane were rescued and survived.  This was dramatized into a 2016 film called "Sully," starring Tom Hanks as Captain Sully Sullenberger.