Geneva

Geneva is one of those places you hear a lot about but find no reason to visit.  It is best known as the headquarters for many of the United Nations agencies, like World Health Organization, Commission for Refugees, International Labor Organization, etc.  The headquarters for the International Red Cross, World Health Organization, World Trade Organization, etc are also here.  It is also a big financial center and headquarters for many of the famous Swiss watch companies.

Geneva is the closest airport gateway to the Chamonix Valley where we started our TMB hike.  We didn't have time to stop in Geneva before but after the hike, I figured it is worth spending at least a day here.  So I booked a room in the old city that is close to all the popular tourist sites.  After Mountain Drop-off, the shuttle company that took us to and from Chamonix, dropped us off at the Geneva airport, we stored our big suitcases in the lockers at the train station next door to the airport.  It was a very simple process:  picked the locker that is the right size for your luggage, insert your credit card, and get a receipt with a QR code.  It is very important to keep the receipt because you will need it the next day to open your locker.  We paid a base rate of 9€.  The next day when we picked up our luggage, we paid whatever is extra with the same credit card.

Google Map instructed us to take the No. 5 or 10 bus to near to the hotel.  Someone at the train station told us, wrongly, that the train will take us there as well.  The train did take us to the city center of Geneva but it's not close enough to the hotel.  So we had to take the bus to near the hotel and walked about 10 minutes to the Hotel Central.  The hotel is located in an office building, on the 6th floor.  The room is very small.  Good thing we kept our big suitcases at the train station.  The hotel receptionist gave us a bus/train/boat pass that is good for all travels around the city.  Because the hotel is so small it didn't have a dining room.  So we were served a simple breakfast of croissant and coffee brought to our room in the morning at the time we requested.

Night Scene in Geneva

Lockers at the Geneva Train Station

Yellow taxi boats to take you around Lake Geneva

Building where Hotel Central is located on the 6th Floor

We took advantage of the pass by first riding on water taxis to different places around the lake.  First, we went to the other side of the lake where the Botanical Gardens is located and near the United Nations agency offices.  The first thing you see on this famous lake is the Water Fountain or Jet d'Eau.  There are also many beautiful swans swimming around the lake.  We also walked to the United Nations offices where we saw a big group of Sri Lankans protesting the "genocide of Tamils in Sri Lanka."  Tamils are a minority in Sri Lanka and have traditionally been marginalized.  In the square is also the famous Broken Chair which symbolizes opposition to land mines and cluster bombs.

Famous Jet d'Eau on Lake Geneva, with yellow water taxi and white swan

White Swans on the Lake

Broken Chair, in from of the Palace of Nations

The next morning we walked around the lake some more and found the famous Flower Clock or in French, L'horloge Fleurie.

Next we walked around the old city of Geneva with its many old buildings and rich history.

A passageway

A popular square with restaurants

Some of the older buildings

A concert hall

It was a short but nice visit.  One thing you have to remember when traveling around Switzerland is, everything is expensive.  We met a group of hikers from Hong Kong on the TMB and befriended one of the ladies, Liza.  We went to a Japanese restaurant with her for dinner in Geneva.  The cost of a bowl of ramen noodle was about 24€, three times more expensive than what it'd have costs in Phoenix.  

Final Thoughts on Tour du Mont Blanc 2019

It is a huge relief when it's all over.  The day after we finished we relished the opportunity to relax, sleep in, and reminisced about our trip.  We spent two months preparing for it.  No matter how many times you read the notes, maps, books, FaceBook pages, and watch YouTube videos, it is not the same as being there and experiencing it first-hand.

Here are some questions that you may ask?

1.  Was it worth it?   Absolutely!  You can read and talk all you want but until you actually do it, you don't know what it feels like.  Once you experience it, it's yours and you will never forget it.  The pain, views, conversations, people you meet, etc, are embedded in your memories.  It's a nice conversation starter and bragging point.  Not many people have done this hike.

2.  Was it as difficult as you think?  Much more so.  One of the TMB books and some tour companies refer to this as a "walk."  Maybe the European definition of a walk is different from an American's.  This is no "walk in the park."  This is a serious hike with a lot of climbing.  Some sections may have been easy walks but most days you are climbing up or down.

3.  Is this more difficult than the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or the hike to Everest Base Camp (EBC).  Definitely.  The Inca Trail has some steep climb to higher elevations, a little over 4,000m to Dead Woman's Pass, but it's only 3 days of tough hiking.  EBC has several days of climbing to higher and higher altitudes, ending at almost 5,000m at Gorak Shepp.  But at certain elevation you have 2 or 3 days to acclimatize.  However, if your body can't adjust to the altitude, then you are finished.  So, altitude is your worst enemy, follow by fatigue, which may or may be caused by altitude.  On TMB altitude is not a big issue but fatigue is.  Every day you are climbing and descending the cols (or passes) so every day you are hiking anywhere from 6 to even 10 hours.  You legs get very very tired.

4.  Is signing up with a Tour Company the best way to do it?  I think so.  Of course there were many hikers who simply relied on books.  One of the most popular books I saw on the trail was actually published in 2015.  That means it's a little outdated.  Also the information in the books may have a lot of information but leave a lot to interpretations.  Fortunately, TMB is very well marked and you run into a lot of other hikers on the trail so the chances of getting lost are very low.  However, you still can get lost.  Like we did on the first day.
You can also go with a guided tour but I think it limits your flexibility.  The advantage is you don't have to consult anything; just follow the guide.  Not only that, some tour companies don't actually do the entire circuit.  They offer a 7 or 8 day hike, but only on selected sections of the route.  Some of them are exorbitantly expensive!  So, shop around if you prefer this method.
We like the self-guided tour.  It gives us maximum flexibility, in terms of scheduling and how long we want to hike.  If we want to take the bus, then, do it.  It also makes it a little more challenging because we have to read and figure out some of the routes.  Although the notes by Alpine Exploratory are very detailed, it is sometimes difficult to visualize what it said.  Also, I think the notes were written for younger and faster hikers.  The timing always seems to be faster than what we took.  All in all, Alpine Exploratory was an excellent choice for us.  They gave us very good support.  A few weeks before our hike, we had a video conference call with our contact, Ollie, and asked him a lot of questions.  He answered them all clearly and we felt so much better after that.  While we were hiking they were working in the background ensuring that our accommodations are okay.  That is another big part of what they bring to the table - booking the accommodations for us.  With their contacts and relationships with the refuges, auberges and hotels, we get the best accommodations that are available.

5.  Did you pack enough?  We probably overpacked!  Fortunately, we signed up to get our extra baggage transferred at the hotels and auberges that we stayed in, we didn't have to carry all the weight all the time.  I also made a mistake of bring my big DSLR camera.  I may have used it only once or twice throughout the whole TMB tour.  However, you need to pack for all weather.  We hike in September, which was cooler than in July or August.  But there were days that were hot, probably almost 30C and we were down to our shorts and T-shirts.  There were also days, when crossing the cols, that we ran into bad weather:  clouds, snow, rain and temperatures down to freezing.  Then you need rain jackets and warm clothes.  If you can, sign up for baggage transfer.

6.  How about water and liquids?  We always have two 1-liter bottles each.  Obviously, if the weather is hot you go through them quickly.  We also find that there are many places where there are potable available to refill your bottles.  They are usually mountain spring water.  Luckily, tap water in all 3 countries are potable so you can refill them before you leave the hotel or auberges.  But always carry enough water or liquid.

7.  Did you have enough nutrition on the trails?  There are few places where you can get food on the trail.  Once in a while you come across a cafe or hut where you can buy food.  Bring snacks, energy bags, energy candies, gatorade, beef jerky, etc.  Anything that you will give you an energy boost while hiking.  You'll be surprised how quickly your breakfast is depleted and you need more energy to get going.

8.  Did we prepare enough physically?  We trained in the gym after we signed up for the trip.  It's not ideal but it helps.  We trained in the gym because it was summer in Phoenix and temperatures get up to as high as 45C.  We walked or ran on treadmills and did a lot of core exercises.  This is important because climbing requires you to have a strong core.  Otherwise, you will be using your knees and legs to carry yourself up the mountains.  And that can cause some injury if most of your weight is on only a few parts of your body.  Having a robust back also helps a lot.  If you are not physically in shape you will not enjoy the hike.  Train in higher altitudes if you live in a low-altitude area and do some real hiking in higher altitudes to get your body and lungs prepared for it.

9.  How about sleep?  Sleep is very important, especially if you are older.  We are older than most hikers and therefore, we need as much sleep as possible.  That's why we opted for the "comfy" option and tried to get our own rooms.  Fortunately, Alpine Exploratory was able to get us our own room for most of the places except for the huts.  Bring eye-mask, ear plugs, or whatever you need to shut off the noise and distractions, if you have to sleep in a dormitory-style room.  If you can afford it, get your own private room.

10.  Would you do it again?  Maybe....and not for a while.  Memories of pain and fatigue are too recent.  Also, age is catching up and it gets harder and harder every year.

TMB Day 11 - Planpraz to Les Houches

Instead of lazing around the entire day we substituted what is supposed to be Day 11 for Day 10.  This way we can complete the entire TMB circuit a day early.

After we checked out of the Hotel les Grand Motets in Argentiere we took the bus to the center of Chamonix.  Our plan, as outlined for us by Alpine Exploratory, is to take the cable car to Planpraz and start Day 11 hike from there.  We bought our tickets for the cable car.  Then I started reading the notes again as to what we are supposed to do when we get up to Planpraz.  Suddenly I realized that there is a 1km uphill climb with 180m ascent to Le Brévent.  Looking up at the mountain above us I didn't think it was an easy task.  Then it dawned on me that we could take another cable car from Planpraz to Le Brévent.  I quickly ran back to the ticketing office and told them that I made a mistake.  Fortunately, they allowed me to exchange the Planpraz ticket to one going all the way up to Le Brévent.  What a relief it was to be just hiking down instead of hiking up again, then down.

Cable car station in Chamonix going up to Planpraz, followed by Le Brévent

At the Planpraz station with Mont Blanc in the background

It sounds fairly straightforward.  Hiking down from Le Brévent to Les Houche is about 8km, all downhill.  However, our experience was very different from our expectation.  Some parts of the trail were steep, some narrow, some have a steep drop to the side and where there were no clearly marked trails, steel or wooden steps were put in place for the hikers to get a foothold.  There were also cables on the side acting as handrails where one can easily fall down the steep side.  There were many hikers going in both directions.  Most of them are just day hikers coming up or going back down to Chamonix.  As expected they are more energized than us and were at a much quicker pace.  We often have to give way to other hikers coming downhill.  We also met a few crazy mountain bikers riding down!  I can't imagine what it's like to fall down.

View of Mont Blanc and the Chamonix valley

A rugged terrain with no shade 

Mont Blanc was in view throughout the hike down

Handrails on the side where it's narrow and steep on the side

Another view of the Chamonix Valley

Some parts of the trail have man-made steps

A beautiful day for paraglider

Doris going down a steep and uneven part of the trail.

 Not only was it difficult physically but mentally as well.  We had to concentrate on our footsteps.  Having been hiking for the last 10 days our legs were very tired.  The first part of the trail below Le Brévent was hot because there was no shade.  As we go lower we start to encounter trees, a welcome shade.  The trail continues zig-zagging downhill.  It seems forever.  Just when we think we are almost at the bottom we see that we still have a long ways ahead of us.  Eventually, we came to some buildings and according to our notes, it's called the Parc Merlet (a zoo).  We walked on paved road for a distance and met many cars and visitors coming in the opposite direction.

Then we are on to another trail and again, it seems forever before we saw houses.  We know now that we are just above Les Houches.  Finally, there is a road; ahead is a dam.  As we come to the bridge the train station is ahead.  We checked out the train station.  It's empty.  We thought it will be faster for us to take a train to Chamonix.

Checking our Google map, we had to cross the highway on a bridge, going uphill for about 500m.  Then we saw the steeple of the church where the city center of Les Houches is.  Going around the church, at last, we saw our bus stop.  We took the No. 1 bus to the Mummery stop and walked about 5 minutes to Auberge du Manoir.  Audrey at the reception desk greeted us warmly.  What a relief to be finally finished!  We are exhausted.

Completing the TMB circuit.  Finishing at the church and bus stop in from to fit

TMB Day 10 - Argentiere to Planpraz

Argentiere spoiled us.  Once we are back in civilization and luxury, it's tough to rough it again.

Our next stage goes from Argentiere to Tré-le-Champ for 2.5km downhill and then a steep 950m climb for 4.5km to Lac Blanc.  This is supposed to be a beautiful part of the hike, reaching the famous Lac Blanc.  However, this section also requires climbing steel ladders.  Doris is afraid of them.  Having seen some videos on FaceBook and YouTube, she is nervous about climbing those ladders.

After Lac Blanc, there is a 3km downhill hike to Le Flégére.  Our day is supposed to end there.  However,  the cable car station at Le Flégére is under repair so we can't stop there.  We have to go another 5km downhill to Planpraz, then take the cable car down to Chamonix, where we will spend the night at Auberge du Manoir.  This makes this 10th stage of the TMB an extra long hike starting with a very challenging uphill climb.  I know once we are settled into our hotel in Chamonix it will be hard to get us motivated to climb up the mountain again for Day 11.

Eventually, we made the best decision of this trip.  WE SKIPPED DAY 10!

TMB Day 9 - Trient to Argentiere

This stage takes us back to the Chamonix Valley, crossing from Switzerland back to France.  The distance is 15km and should take about 6 hours.  The first part of the hike, from Trient to Col de Balme is all uphill, a distance of 5.5km and an ascent of 900km.

After a skimpy breakfast at the L'Auberge de Mont Blanc, we dropped off our bags for transport and start getting ready to walk out the door.  Almost all the hikers are doing the same.  Everyone is heading south on the main paved road.  At le Peuty, about 1km away, there is a campsite, toilets and an information board.  Some hikers are being dropped off by taxis or vans.  They may have been staying at Forclaz because they couldn't find accommodations at Trient.

Hikers heading out in the early morning light

The Refuge du Peuty, providing basic accommodations

Yurt-type tents providing sleeping quarters for hikers

 Right after le Peuty we start our ascent up the mountain.  It's a long section of zig-zags and never seem to end.  We met other hikers, young and old, from all over the world.  We met mountain-bikers coming down from the other direction.  We passed through some beautiful wooded areas and rewarded with views of mountains and valleys.  It is our last glimpse of Switzerland.

Doris crossing the Nant Noir

Start of uphill climb

Views of mountain peaks

Trail going through open meadows

Mountain biker coming down the other direction

View of the valley behind us in Switzerland

Approaching the hut at Col de Balme

Snow-capped mountains and valley in Switzerland

The hut starts to look bigger as we approach Col de Balme.  When we reached the hut we saw many people stopping to rest.  Some are gazing into the Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc itself.  It was a clear day and we could see Mont Blanc clearly.  This is also where the Swiss border ends and the French border begins.  We ran into many hikers that we've meeting the last few days.  We greeted each and chatted and talk about our experience.  There is a sense of accomplishment because we are so near to the end of the hike.

Stone marking the border between Switzerland and France

Looking at Mont Blanc from a distant

Finally it's time for our descent into Argentiere.  We were supposed to descend from Col de Balme to Col des Posettes, then to Aiguillete des Posettes.  Then more descent to Tré-le-Champ and finally down to Argentiere.  A total distance of another 9.5km.

However, we have had enough hiking for the day.  The climb up Col de Balme was tiring.  So we decided to walk slight below Col de Balme and take the ski-lift part way down.  Then we take a cable car down to the town of Le Tour.  From there we took a bus to Argentiere.  This probably saved us about 4 hours.  Our bodies are tired.  We need to save some energy for the last 2 days.

Checking into the 4-star Hotel les Grands Montets was a renewed feeling. It is a luxurious hotel, better than any we've stayed so far.  Our balcony faces Mont Blanc.  We are near a ski-lift so this must be a popular area in the winter.  After a quick shower we were ready for a nap.

Town of Argentiere

View of Mont Blanc from the balcony

Beautiful Hotel les Grands Montets

TMB Day 8 - Champex to Trient

There are two options for the bus from Orsiéres up to Champex in the morning.  One is at 7:45am, the other is at 9am.  It takes about 20 minutes for the trip because it is a steep winding road with blind corners.  The bus has to go slow.  Taking the 9am bus would make our start from Champex at around 9:30am.  The hike from Champex to Trient is 18.5km and is supposed to take 5 1/2 hours.  But we've always found that the time given assume that you are a fast walker and does not stop to take pictures or breaks.  We'd usually add another 2 hours to the time.  So, if we start at 9:30am, we'd reach Trient at about 5pm.  Too late.

We decided we needed an early start and took the 7:45am bus.  The Hotel Terminus had to rush with our breakfast to get us out of the door to catch the bus.  I could've used another cup of coffee.  So, after getting off the bus at Lake Champex we passed a bakery and I had another shot of caffeine.  It's very important to be alert on the trail.  Besides caffeine it's utterly important to have a good night's sleep.  One mistake and you could fall and injure yourself.  That would be the end of your hike.

Our first target is the small hamlet of Champex d'en Bas, about 4km away.  It's an easy hike through the woods at first and eventually coming to a group of buildings making up the hamlet.

Mountain bikers gathering just below the ski life in Champex

This father and daughter team were driven around by the mother

Beautiful house in Champex d'en Bas

Early morning smoke coming out of the fireplace

Soon we are on the trail going uphill.  Our target is Alp Bovine, 5km away with a climb of 670m.  The numbers may not mean much to those who have not attempted this but it's quite a climb.  Your leg muscles are tested.  Even with the moderate temperature you are sweating.  If you have a heavy backpack you really regret it.  But the views are amazingly beautiful.  As you go higher you see the Rhone valley and the town of Martigny.

A cross on one of the mountain tops

A trail through the woods

More beautiful views

Stop to turn right to see more beautiful views

We started to see more varieties of mushrooms.  We also find wild blueberries and raspberries.  The climb never seem to end.  It's nice meeting other hikers along the way and chatting with them briefly.

Beautiful blueberries

Tasty raspberries

This colorful mushroom is probably poisonous

I won't touch this

Peaks and valleys

Another trail

Someone left a bathtub up in the mountains

Looking down in the Rhone valley and a little of Martigny

Another view of the Rhone valley

A panoramic view

 Soon we can see a few buildings, making up Alp Bovine.  We made a stop and see if we could order lunch.  But there was a long line, even going to the toilet.  That morning we had taken a couple of baguettes from the hotel in Orsieré.  We took them out, spread some jam on it, had some fruits and we are ready to go again.  Some hikers prefer to linger around, order a big lunch and some alcoholic beverages.  There were many hiking groups with their guides.  The beauty of hiking on your own is you set your own schedule, and go whenever you feel like it.

Approaching Alp Bovine

A big crowd in Bovine on a beautiful day

Looking back at Bovine

After lunch we are ready for a long 5.5km descent to Col de la Forclaz.  It's a drop of 470m.  With a full tummy and rest we are energized.  We were coming down the mountain fast, passing many other hikers.  There was no reason to hurry but we felt comfortable going fast.  Then we saw the small town of Col de la Forclaz.  There is a fairly good-size hotel there and some shops.  We stopped to use a public toilet, commonly called WC, which stands for "water closet."  Doris had a yearning for a bottle of coke so we bought one.  Then we are off to our stop for the day - Trient.

Souvenir store and mini-mart in Forclaz

Looking down at the town of Trient, from Forclaz

Wooden bridge to take you around the mountain

Trient, as we are coming down the mountain

 We finally came down the mountain, cross the road and walked into the town of Trient at about 3pm.  We asked directions to the L'Auberge du Mont Blanc, a 4-story building bustling with hikers.  Another auberge next door is the other option to stay in Trient.  Our dinner and breakfast are included here.  A few days ago we were told via email, that they are giving us our own room.  I can't be HAPPIER.  Some people were told that you have to book a year in advance to get your own room.  Our tour company did a wonderful job pushing to get us our own room.  We wanted a "comfy" trip, I told them.

For dinner we were given a choice of fondue or rice with pork and vegetables.  We picked one of each so that we can taste each other's food.  This is the Swiss version of fondue, which is sometimes called raclette.  Instead of dipping your meat, potatoes, or bread into a pot of cheese, you pour the melted cheese onto your potatoes and bread.  It was a communal long table of about 12 people.  Soon everyone is in bed.  Another long day lays ahead of us.

Ice cream with a Swiss flag

Auberge du Mont Blanc