Spoils of the War

Americans call it the Vietnam War. Vietnamese call it the American War. Whatever you call it, it was an ugly war. However, when you ask an American about the Vietnam War, they think of the number of GIs' dead, protests, the Vietnam War Memorial, Agent Orange, refugees, Saigon, etc. When you ask a Vietnamese about the American War, they don't like to talk about it. They have move on. Sometimes you come across pictures of Hanoi being bombed during the war and the sacrifices they have to make. But, in general, they look to the future. When I was living in Hanoi, the taxi would take me pass the Defense Ministry every morning on my way to the office. At the corner of Nguyen Tri Phuong and Dien Bien Phu Streets, across the street from Lenin Park, you can see relics from the war. I've never tried to go inside to see the Army Museum but on this trip, I thought I will go in and see what is on display. By the way, Dien Bien Phu reminds one of another famous Vietnamese war - the Revolutionary War against the French. This area is also very French - wide avenues with shaded trees and French villas. Regardless, the Vietnamese are very proud of their victories. You see that in the Revolutionary Palace in Ho Chi Minh City and here in Hanoi, on display, are the American weapons they captured from the war.

An American F-6 Fighter Jet

Chinook Helicopter

An Army Tank

An Army Aircraft

Helicopter

Armored Personnel Carrier

Heaps of Weapons

Bragging Rights from the French and American Wars

Tam Dao

Vietnamese are some of the most hospitable people in the world.  When my friends heard that I was coming to visit, they planned activities for me while I am here.  They take turns making sure that someone is taking me out to meals or I have something to do.   They were planning on a weekend trip to the beach but that did not work out.  So we settled for an overnight stay at a mountain resort area called Tam Dao, about 3 hours away from Hanoi.
There were 12 of us in the group.  We rented a passenger van, which picked us up at the IBM Office at 8 am on Saturday.  On the way to Tam Dao, we stopped for breakfast and picked up a friend who lives nearby.  After a bowl of pho, we were on our way up the winding road towards the mountain resort area.  Getting away from the heat in Hanoi is itself worth the trip.  I think most people come here to just get away from the city.  There is also a golf course nearby, where I've played a couple of times.  There is not much else to do here - just buying stuff from the street vendors, eat, and at night, get a massage or do karaoke.  One thing you noticed when you drive into town is the number of locals selling a certain kind of bananas and a vegetable.  The bananas are called king bananas because they were the favorites of one of the Vietnamese kings.  The locals sell them in a bunch for about US$2.  Yes, that's right.  There's about 50 bananas in a bunch for US$2 and they really taste good.  The vegetable that they sell resembles a little like spinach, although a little lighter green.  They just braised it and add some garlic to it.  It'd taster better if they put a little oyster sauce on it, just like Chinese restaurants adding oyster sauce to "kai lan" or chinese broccoli.
This area somewhat resembles Sapa, a mountainous area close to the Chinese border.  However, Sapa is a much bigger and expansive area with wonderful views of the mountains and rice paddies.  Sapa is also populated by minority ethnic groups.  The bad part about Sapa is that it's about 10 hours by train away.

King's bananas - each bunch costs around US2

Vegetables popular in this area

Purple Sweet Potatoes - they are very good

Sticky rice cooked in a bamboo

Catholic Church in town

A view of the town

Vendor selling food

Town Market

Hot Humid Hanoi

I picked a wrong time to come to Hanoi.  This is the hottest time of the year.  On top of that the humidity makes Hanoi unbearable during the day.  I enjoy walking around the Old Quarter of Hanoi because this is where you get a true perspective of what Vietnam is.  However, after walking for just 1 hour, my shirt would be all soaked.  Fortunately, my hotel is quite comfortable and after a short walk, I'd come back to the hotel, take a shower and cool off.  I feel bad for the local vendors who have to work outside or without air-conditioning.  But, that is life here.
I remember coming to Hanoi about 2 years ago in July.  It was also hot and humid but I still enjoyed walking all over Hanoi, even though I'd get soaked in sweat.  Now that the sights are not so new to me anymore, maybe that's why I am feeling the heat and humidity more.

A Lotus Bloom

Lotus Pods in the background

Lotus seed with the tiny green stem that makes it bitter

Young couple taking pictures

This is the lotus blooming season.  Some friends took me to West Lake where there are a lot of lotus plants.  It's quite a popular thing to do as evidenced by the number of people by the lake.  People come to admire the beauty of the flower as well as to take pictures.  I've eaten a lot of lotus seeds in soup, dessert or pastries but I've never known how or where they come from.  Now I know seeds are taken from a pod, then cracked open and the lotus seed (meaty party) is taken out.  Inside the seed there is a green stem which makes it bitter so that is usually taken out too.

Lunch Buffet at Sumo BBQ

I took a walk one morning around Truc Bach Lake where I used to live.  I have a fondness for this lake because it's a small lake and life around the lake is a microcosm of Vietnam.  I used to run around the lake in the morning and marvel at the lives of the Vietnamese.  They don't have much compare to what we Americans have but they try their best to make a living.  Even the old do their part.  You don't see people going around begging.
When John McCain's plane was shot down during the Vietnam war, he fell into this lake.  There is a memorial marking the incident somewhere on the side of the lake.

Workout Area by Truc Bach Lake

On the Way to Vietnam

I am waiting at the Budget Terminal at the Singapore Changi Airport for my Tiger Airways flight to Hanoi.  It's a 3 1/2 hour flight.  One nice thing about being in Singapore is that there are a lot of cheap flights from here.  Over the last few years, quite a few budget airlines have sprung up.  They are mostly modeled after Southwest Airlines in the US - get you from Point A to B, and no frills.  You pay for your check-in luggage and even a bottle of water on the plane costs $3.  There are many budget airlines flying in Asia;  the most popular ones are Tiger Airways, Jetstar and Air Asia.  You can fly to many places in Asia for very cheap.  For example, my round-trip airfare to Hanoi is less than US$200.
I am looking forward to seeing my Vietnamese friends again.  Most of them are young - in their late 20s' or early 30s'.  They all speak good English.  Unfortunately, the system in Vietnam put them at a disadvantage.  Unless you have the right connections, you won't be going anywhere.  That's the fact of life in a communist system.
I will be staying at the Royal Palace Hotel, which is not far from the IBM Office and the Old Quarter.  This is the area that I am very comfortable with, having spent 9 months in Hanoi.  When I first got to Hanoi in 2010, I did not know a lot of people.  So, I spent most of my free time exploring the city, especially the Old Quarter.  To me, it was interesting and exciting.  A lot of things were new to me and whenever I come across something I don't understand, I'd ask my friends when I come back to the office.  I tried different kinds of food, although some of the food stands don't look too clean at all.  If you haven't had a chance to read my Vietnam blog, here it is:    http://menginvietnam.blogspot.com

I arrived at Hanoi's Noi Bai airport without any problems. The flight was quite full but it left on time and arrived on time. The flight attendants don't look the most professional but that's okay. All I want is to get to Hanoi. I bought a small meal of Japanese curry and rice for S$10. It's enough to tide me over until I get to Hanoi.
Upon arrival at the airport, first thing I did was to go to the "Visa-on-Arrival" Office.  In some countries (like Cambodia and Laos), you can just arrive at the airport and apply for the visa when you arrive.  The fee is usually around US$25.  But Vietnam is different.  You have to apply for the visa before you come to Vietnam.   You do it through any of the agencies that advertise when you search under "Vietnam Visa."  It costs around US$20 to have one of these agencies apply for you.  You then get an email a few days later, saying that your visa has been approved.  The email includes an attachment with your name and other applicants that have been approved on the same application.  At the airport I gave the attachment and a completed form plus $25 and "Viola!" I got my visa.  If you don't pre-apply, I heard that the Vietnamese authorities do not hesitate to send a traveler back to its last port of origination.

The Royal Palace Hotel on Quan Su Street

The hotel had a driver pick me up at the airport.  It's nice.  Otherwise, it costs around US$15 to take a taxi to town, which takes about an hour.  Arriving in Hanoi for the first time is quite an experience.  After leaving the airport you see rice paddies on both sides of the road.  The traffic here don't seem to have any rules and don't follow the lanes.  Pedestrians and motorbikes just cross the streets in front of the  cars.  It looks chaotic but you actually see very few accidents.  The drivers and pedestrians are quite alert.  Above you see a picture of the hotel, considered a 3-star.  An air-conditioned room with breakfast, costs me about US$27 a night.  Hotels are quite cheap in Hanoi.  You can get cheaper ones, even less than US$20.  You can also sleep in backpackers' hostel for US$5 a night.  One place I saw even offers free beer with your stay.  What a deal!
I already have my first meeting with some of my friends at Hoa Vien restaurant and brewery.  It has a micro-brewery in the restaurant and the beer is quite good.  Vietnamese are some of the most hospitable people.  It was nice seeing them.  Some of them have left IBM where I used to work when I was here.  I look forward to seeing them more the rest of the week.